[From the Philmanac - Visto Grande is Spanish for Magnificent
View.
This camp was originally called Bench Camp, but it was changed in 1975 to
avoid confusion with the nearby Upper Bench Camp. In 1947, while
stationed
as a Ranger at Bench Camp, staff member John Westfall wrote the Philmont
Hymn. "Purple mountains rise, against an azure sky" represented the
view at Visto Grande Camp as the sun set over Baldy Mountain. There
are still remains of an old cabin that was used in the early years at the
camp. The spring at Visto Grande is the water source.]
[From the Philmanac - Deer Lake Mesa Camp is located on the trail from
Upper
Bench to Ute Park Pass, on the northwest corner of Deer Lake Mesa (which
is one of the largest mesas on Philmont.) The top of Deer Lake Mesa
is capped with Cretaceous Poison Canyon Formation - which is sandstone and
conglomerate washed from the west (in ancient times) by streams. The
reservoir at the camp is stagnant water; the better water is the spring
located
just to the east. The camp is notable for the enormous number of
pine
cones produced by the trees in the area.]
Woke at 5 am, with the birds and the noise of the (grey) Crew next door
getting
up. Another perfectly clear sky overhead. As expected, it was
very cold in the meadow; it's always amazing how much warmer it is even
with
just a few overhead trees. Fortunately, the all-night breeze kept
the
dew down to a minimum. Got up around 5:15, and did a leisurely pack
up of my still damp clothes and other gear. 38 degrees in the
meadow,
and 47 degrees under the trees 60 feet away. Wrote some diary til
5:55,
then ambled down for a group wakeup call - a lot easier when everyone's
together!
The grey Crew (doing Trek 32) left around 6:15, off to Upper Bench.
We followed at 6:45, doing a quick 30 minute run down to the upper rim of
Bear Canyon for breakfast. Already too late for the
"best" view of
Bear, but it was still impressive. Today's breakfast was pretty
thin,
so we augmented it with some of our extra goodies from home, making a
decent
meal out of it. Left at 7:50, just as the first member of another
Crew
came down from Santa Claus. Down the new trail into Bear Canyon - a
really excellent piece of trail work that took years to finish.
Great views from most of the upper third. Passed 2 Crews heading
up; the first was split into 3 smaller groups, with the last group (the
Advisors,
naturally) looking a little desperate in their efforts to keep up with
their
greyhounds. Well, this is what you get when you allow people to take
off! Live and learn, friends. Getting increasingly hot as we
approached the bottom, even though it's still before 9 am - Bear Canyon is
notorious for being an oven in the mid-afternoon. A little cooler at
the very bottom, since it was still shaded there (but not for much
longer!)
Quickly down to the Cimarron River, with a group shot at the tunnel under
U.S. Rt. 64. Surprisingly, the old bridge was gone, replaced by
a lower version built on 2 I-beams. Must have been a heck of a
flood to tear the other one away; it had been 6 - 8 feet above the
river.
A couple of fishermen were trying their luck just upstream of the bridge,
barely glancing at us as we passed; I guess passing Crews are a pretty
common
sight here. Continued on through the Cimarron River Camp (deserted),
passing through a sea of waist-high goldenrod on the way - got a
good picture, hope it turns out. Andy got a good laugh out of
everyone
with a comment on the power lines paralleling Rt. 64 - "World's largest
bear-bag
cables!" Headed up the hill towards Visto Grande camp, blowing past
the grey Crew we had camped next to at Santa Claus (they were sprinting
and
drifting.) Hot and dusty now, with a high sky. Pulled into
Visto
Grande, happy to see that the spring was flowing, and no-one else was
around.
Took a packs off break to water up (and for a few Scouts to hit the
Red-Roof
Inn.) The grey Crew came in about 10 minutes later, and looked to be
heading right through camp without a stop, so I called out and reminded
them
that Upper Bench was a dry camp, and this was their last water supply
until
Harlan. For some reason, they seemed irritated at the hint, but fell
out into the trees nonetheless. A few minutes later another Crew
came
down from the Bench; they were an NCAC Crew from Fairfax (probably one of
the 630 a la carte contingent Crews.) They looked to be having a
pretty
good time - guys all lively and animated. We headed out soon
thereafter,
pushing up to Inspiration Point. Passed a female Rayado Crew in the
meadow just below the switchbacks - 2 Rangers and 4 female trekkers.
Up to the point just before 10:30. [Inspiration Point is where the
Philmont Hymn was allegedly penned, back in the late `40's. It
offers
a spectacular view of Touch-Me-Not and Baldy up the Ute Creek
Valley.]
"Mommie-shots" for everyone. The Rayado Crew cruised through
(without
a stop) just as we finished up. We went ahead and ate lunch, since
this was about as perfect an overlook as you could find anywhere on the
Ranch.
About 10 minutes later one of the stranger Crews I've ever seen came down
from the Bench - 5 Advisors, and 3 Scouts - one of whom looked to also be
over 18. I wonder how they pushed this one past Registration?
They were from Orlando, and we laughed about all the good practice they
had
managed to get trekking in the great Florida Alps. I took some Crew
pictures for them, and filled them in on the history of this spot, which
they hadn't known. I think they were heading for the Cimarron River
Camp. We saddled up and headed out a few minutes later, about
11:00.
Hot hike uphill to Upper Bench. Passed 3 Crews going the other way
- one was another Crew from Orlando (this one a little better "balanced"),
and 2 from Sterling, Virginia. One of the Sterling Crews refused to
yield the trail, hiking right through us; only their Advisors pulled
over. Fortunately, the trail was just wide enough to let us pass
without
anyone running into each other. Morons - but I managed to hold my
tongue.
Passed Upper Bench Camp a little later; surprisingly (despite the
drought),
the meadow/pond was full of water, at least 3 feet deep in the
middle.
We stopped for a minute and discussed how this would be an excellent spot
to watch for
wildlife, especially at
dusk. Unfortunately, we're not staying here this year. Pushed
on to Deer Lake Mesa Camp; a long, thin alpine meadow outlined by
Ponderosa
pines, with a reservoir at the far end. However, the "reservoir" was
a murky, green mess - and there was no well. Uh oh! Plus there
was
a pile of reddish pellets in and
around a shallow bucket on the berm which looked to me to be maybe
some kind of slow-release
algicide - another reason to be wary of the water. A check of the
site
map indicated a "spring" just above the reservoir, but it was just a
mud-hole.
However, the Central Country map indicated another spring below the
reservoir,
so Brad and I schlepped down for a look-see, and finally found it - a tiny
hole at the bottom of the slope on the opposite of the meadow, flowing at
about 3 gallons per hour. Slow maybe, but it was clear and a heck of lot
better looking than the reservoir slime, so good deal.
We collected cup-by-cup from 1:30 through 4:30. Hank took the
time
to
rig a sun-screen, relayed
collected
water back to the site, and brought us some Bug-N-Sun, so we weren't
completely
fried by the time we finished. The flies were ridiculous, even with
repellent on. Definitely a strange way to spend an afternoon.
Neal and Steven started dinner with our first purified batches, and we
took
the rest for canteens and (eventually) cleanup. When we got back to
camp, Brad crashed immediately, while I sat in the shade and wrote some
diary;
lots of subject material today! Despite our heads-up, the next Crew
in camp (the fabled third Trek 30 Crew) didn't take our place at the
spring;
I guess they must have ended up filtering the reservoir water.
Dinner
was Lasagna, plus some of the Cajun Beans and Rice we had in our
supplemental
food, and Banana Pudding. Good
stuff! Fortunately, we had just enough water to finish cleanup
without
a second trip to the spring, plus everyone still had more than 2 liters
apiece
for the short hike to the Ute Gulch Commissary tomorrow. Once we
finished
camp breakdown and packup, Chris, Brad and I ambled over to talk to the
third
Crew. Our "get acquainted" chat turned into an hour and a half long
talk. They turned out to also be from Sterling, VA (Troop 970), and
were down to only 5 members at this point (and expecting to lose their
primary
Advisor, Mr. H., the next day.) They had originally started with 11
members, but 5 trekkers dropped out just before they were supposed to
leave,
then another one dropped out after a day or two on the trail. Since
they were well below the minimum at this point, Philmont had them
"shadowing"
the Indiana Crew. Scouts were Ben, John and Bud; the 2 Advisors were
both fathers. We offered our assistance if they needed it; they
thanked
us but declined "for now anyway." Took our leave at 8:15. I
drank
a half-liter of water (I was still badly dehydrated) and hit the rack at
8:30. Wrote diary until it was too dark, and called it a day.
And to imagine I thought today would be an easy one!