[From the Philmanac - Cathedral Rock is the massive rock formation that
looms above Cimarroncito Reservoir. This is an excellent area to
find
mule deer in the early morning and late evening hours.]
[From the Philmanac - Cyphers Mine was part of the Cimarroncito Mining
District.
This area was originally mined by Thomas Knott and Charles Wells around
1880.
They sold out to the Colorado Consolidated Verde Mining and Milling
Company
in 1894. One of the managers for this company was an old miner named
Charlie Cyphers, who operated the mine from 1900 through the early
1920's.
After several somewhat productive years, his hopes dwindled along with his
profits. Waite Phillips reportedly bought him out for about
$100.
Today, you can still visit "Charlie's Cabin," which is filled with
paraphernalia
from the former mining glory days, and is currently still used for the
evening
"Stomp." The floor of the cabin was replaced in 1993; otherwise, it
is pretty much as Charlie left it. Mine tours are still conducted in
the Contention Mine, and discuss mine construction, working conditions,
and
mining dangers, as well as geology. Some of the mines in the area
include
the Thunder, Glorietta, and Garst. Other programs offered at Cyphers
Mine include gold panning in the north fork of the Cimarroncito Creek, and
blacksmithing (which was an essential part of mining and mine
construction.)
The camp still has a wood-stoked shower house, and uses Adirondack
Shelters
for camping (because of the rough, uneven ground in the area.) The
46 feet long footbridge over the Creek was rebuilt in 1995.]
Up at 5:35 am; 46 degrees, "It's Perfect Again!" - where did all the
clouds
go? Thankfully, the tarp and tents were all dry, despite the late
burst
of rain the night before. This morning's wakeup chorus included
several
croaking ravens and a couple of whinnying horses. A few Crews had
left
for Shaefers Pass between 4:45 and 5:30, but most were still in
camp.
Chris and Brad were up too, but we held off on waking the Crew. Took
down the bear-bags and tarp in the meantime. Roused everyone else at
6:00, and circled up at 6:35 for stretching, then up to the Staff cabin
(for
water) by 6:45. Kept quiet for the Staff's sake. Spent a few
minutes fixing Steven's pack - he had popped a pack-pin the previous
afternoon,
and unfortunately it was an odd size. Finally managed to jury rig it
with a safety pin, and we headed out, retracing our route to the
Cimarroncito
Reservoir and Cathedral Rock. Passed another Crew on the way, on
their
way to Ute Springs; their trailing Advisors were having a very difficult
time on just a slight uphill, not good. We stopped at the reservoir
at 7:30 for breakfast - but the view was not so hot, with the sun rising
right over the water (but hey, still better than eating in camp any
day!)
But we should have spent 2 more minutes and hiked down next to the
reservoir;
that would have been a much better choice. The other Crew showed up
a few minutes later, and after a few minutes debate, headed east to take
the valley trail to Ute Springs, with several of the Scouts looking
clearly
frustrated and/or disgusted - so much for Window Rock or (even) just
Cimarroncito
or Hunting Lodge. [ASIDE: Sad when your Philmont experience
has
to be based on taking the easiest possible trails between camps, because
some of your Advisors can't hack it. As I have stated many times,
too
many people - Advisors AND Scouts! - have no business being here.
More
to the point, they're stealing spaces from more motivated and deserving
candidates,
and ruining Philmont for the rest of their Crews. Except for the
morning
after my laser eye surgery, I hiked and/or backpacked 4 to 8 miles EVERY
DAY FOR 10 STRAIGHT WEEKS before I stepped on the plane, ending with
50-plus
pounds on my back for the last 2 weeks worth. What did these
Advisors
do? Ridiculous.... Easy to say "Not my problem" - but with the
increasing attendance pressure on the Ranch, it's everyone's
problem.
What's next? - every 3 years? every 5 years? Once per
lifetime?
It's time to become completely intolerant of these Philmont
thieves!]
At 8:00, after another "war," this time with thistle seeds of some sort,
we saddled up and headed for Cyphers. As we exited from the trail
onto
the Cimarroncito road, we met with a Crew from Charlottesville, VA.
Turned out to be Mike Ashby's Troop, who I had helped prepare for their
first
(1998) trek. Mike wasn't here this year, but one of the Scouts was
a repeat - but all he could remember of me was that "the training had been
in the volunteer firehouse." Well, so much for making a dramatic
impression!
They were on their way to Clark's Fork, then into Basecamp tomorrow.
We spent a minute showing them how to caterpillar, which they seemed
impressed
with (and promised to use for the long haul up Shaefers), and we took our
leave. With minimal debate, the guys passed on doing the Hunting
Lodge,
so we picked up the pace, turning left onto the trail for "Middle Fork" (no signs for either Lambert's or Cyphers Mine.) A
great trail! - steady uphill for miles, running alongside the middle fork
of Cimarroncito Creek, well shaded and cool. Great views behind us
as we climbed, and increasing numbers of aspens, too, with a few Douglas
Fir intermingled. Twice I saw sizable native trout in the creek -
the
bigger one was at least 12 inches long, which is a heck of a fish
here!
Passed many crews on their way down, all coming from Cyphers Mine - must
have been quite a crowd there last night. Every one of them properly
yielded the right of way, except for one group of Texans. Hit the
trail
intersect for Lambert's, and turned right for Cyphers - now paralleling
the
north fork of Cimarroncito Creek. A bit later we passed the
left-hand
cutoff for Commanche Pass. At this point, we had Cimmaroncito Peak
almost directly in front of us, and a great view 2 - 3 miles down the
valley
to the right, towards Cimmaroncito camp and the Hidden Valley
ridgeline.
The trail slowly curved to the left, and continued up the valley, now at
a sharper incline. Guys just pushed it all the way, however, with
just
a few caterpillars, and we pulled into Cyphers Mine at 10:05. Saw a
couple of
Adirondack type shelters
as we arrived - I had forgotten that camping at Cyphers was in shelters,
not tents. It's gonna be tight for 10 of us, though. Wandered
around for a minute or two before figuring out where the Staff Cabin was
- across a (very well-built) footbridge. "Martin" invited us up onto
the porch for an orientation; we snagged a 10:45 Blacksmithing session and
an 11:30 Mine Tour. Once that was established, he led us down to one
of shelters that was close to the creek (#4 ??), and everyone dumped their
packs inside and grabbed their flashlights. We were already close to
being late, so Hank volunteered to watch the gear while the rest of us
headed
up to the forge. I handled the primary photo duties, with Brad also
taking a few shots. The blacksmith was Marc Lerch, who (amazingly)
recognized me from 1996, when he was a trekker in our brother Crew, Troop
829 from the Robert E. Lee Council. (All the more surprising in that
we had not gotten along with that Crew very well, and had therefore pretty
much avoided each other until we got a little friendlier with each other
our last 2 nights, at Harlan and Clark's Fork.) Q & A between
Marc
and the Crew quickly established that we had already done blacksmithing at
French Henry, so he offered a more ambitious project -
making a dinner bell (triangle and ringer.) Again,
every one of the Scouts got involved, and we filled the entire time
slot.
In fact, we went a little overtime (11:35) before finishing, at which
point
the guys thanked Marc and headed up to the mine. I stuck around for
a couple of minutes offering my personal thanks - it would have been easy
enough for Marc to have "gotten even" for a 4 year old grudge, and I
wanted
to make sure that he knew that I appreciated the fact that (if anything)
he went above and beyond to make our stay better. Good guy.
Headed
up to the mine, and found the Crew
already
engrossed in the theory of finding gold, and the history of the
"Contention"
Mine. This from "Big Fat Bob the Hog." Another Crew was
getting
a similar talk from "Jimbo." Turns out that gold is typically
located
in a
black rock seam between 2
plates, and that the mine here followed
just
such a seam after finding an extraordinarily rich vein here in the late
1800's.
Unfortunately, that vein died out quickly, and the mine changed hands
several
times in the following years, with each new hopeful eking out next to
nothing
while searching for that elusive mother lode. The last holdout was
Charlie Cyphers, who had been the very capable foreman of one of the last
companies, and basically became a hermit, working the mine alone for many
years until Waite Phillips bought him out. So somewhere around here
still is one heck of a lot of gold! With that, everyone donned
hard-hats
and
we headed in, about 10 minutes
behind "Jimbo's" Crew. Cyphers is over 500 feet in, more than twice
the distance of the Aztec/Ponil 2 at French Henry, and unlike A/P-2 (which
was a blowout shaft), this was the actual mine. Cyphers also has 2
side passages, and one vertical
shaft, each of which had followed temporarily
promising leads.
[Photo: Drill holes] Both Crews
ended
up
assembling at the back of the mine for the usual hair-raising ending;
surprisingly, however, here they did allow us to do the "no-light" escape
that was no longer allowed at A/P-2. We headed out about 5 minutes
after the first Crew. As always, a good time and another excellent
Crew-building exercise (one of the reasons why I like doing it so
much.)
500-plus feet is a long way to walk out with no light! Once we
exited
(about 12:40), we thanked both "Big Fat Bob" and "Jimbo," and the Crew
headed
back for lunch; I stuck around for a few more minutes to ask a couple of
more questions. Lunch went quickly today - 12:45 is getting late
when
you usually eat breakfast early, and then hike like maniacs. We also
augmented what we had with a few bags of our cashews, which were well
appreciated.
By 1:15, we were finished, and most of the guys headed off for - you
guessed
it -
more gold panning in the North
Fork. While dreams of nuggets danced in their heads.
Unfortunately,
yet another thunderstorm moved in a half-hour later (with dime-sized hail
driving the last hopefuls inside), so no-one struck it rich today.
Since everyone was together, we spent about 15 minutes discussing the next
day's hike to Mt. Phillips, with the issue being whether to do it direct,
then go to Red Hills, or go over Mt. Phillips to Clear Creek, doing a big
southerly loop back to Red Hills afterwards. The latter choice was
considerably more difficult, but Clear Creek offered another Black Powder
Rifle Program, and the hike up Comanche Creek to Red Hills (from the
southwest)
was allegedly very scenic. In the end, everyone decided to wait `til
we summited Mt. Phillips before making a decision on which option to take
- which was pretty sensible. The rain was coming down pretty good at
this point, so most of the Crew took advantage and grabbed another
nap.
Dan worked his gimp for awhile before crashing, while I wrote diary and
enjoyed
watching a pair of birds work at feeding their nestlings, on top of the
main
roof beam running across the front of the hut. A voracious robin was
cleaning
house out in front of the shelter, too. At 3:00, Hank quietly left
to go see if he could join the next mine tour (but he soon returned;
no-one
was there.) The rain finally eased by about 3:30, but it remained
stubbornly
cloudy and surprisingly nippy - 52 degrees. Oddly, it was clear and
sunny to the east. At 4:00, Hank and I started dinner behind the
hut.
Turkey/Noodle Stew, Cheddar Potato Soup, Peaches and Cream Pie (with
graham
cracker topping), and Gatorade, a pretty good meal. Indiana showed
up at 4:30; some of their guys looked pretty whipped, but they were still
moving right along. No sign of Sterling, but they probably slipped
by during the rainstorm. Indiana ended up in the hut just above
ours,
and immediately headed off to do either the Blacksmithing or Mine Tour (or
both); we had to chase a few mini-bears away from their packs until they
returned. Woke the Crew at 5:00; everyone was well pleased that
dinner
was already served. This one ended up being a popular meal, too -
with
nothing left for the sump. Dinner and cleanup was over by 6:30, and
everyone busied themselves getting the bear-bags up, repacking their
stuff,
and setting up sleeping arrangements in the hut for tonight. After
a quick discussion, Hank and I decided to set up our tent out in the small
(but level) clearing in front of the hut; no need to be squashed in with
everyone else. The ground was impossible to stake, so we laid rocks
on crossed stakes on both sides; it worked. Not hard to see why they
decided on Adirondack shelters here! Of note, we had a number of
deer wandering around the site, licking and chewing on the rocks that
the guys had "watered" (for the salt). A bit of a gross-out, but at
least now everyone could see for themselves why Philmont asks everyone to
avoid urinating on trees or soil, or touching signs and trees with sweaty
hands. At 7:00, Hank and I headed up for the Advisor's Coffee,
running
into Martin discussing a bear attack near Mt. Phillips with another
Advisor.
Our ears immediately perked up when we heard that "Mt. Phillips will be
closed
for tomorrow at least." Once that conversation was over, we got the
bad word direct - apparently, a bear had attacked 2 different Crews at Mt.
Phillips camp, injuring a Scout in each, and Mt. Phillips and all the
upper
staging camps (Thunder Ridge, Comanche Peak, Red Hills, and Mt
Phillips)
would stay closed until the bear had been tracked down and shot.
Unfortunately,
the next news was even worse - all the Crews at Cyphers that were due to
go over Phillips had been directed to return to Cimarroncito camp -
Arrrgh!
Counter-striking immediately, I asked if we could be allowed to go to "any
southern camp," so we could at least climb Bear and Black Mountains in
place
of Comanche and Phillips. Martin looked dubious, but said he would
go
ahead
and call our request into Logistics. Just as he left, the rest of
the
Crew came up, and we had to break the news to them; as expected, no-one
was
happy with this development, since this Crew had purposefully selected
Trek
30 for the chance to climb the major peaks in the west-central
section.
Martin exited the Staff cabin, and we headed up to see what Logistics had
to say - and much to my surprise (and Martin's too, I think), they
approved
us going over Bear and Black Mountains via Comanche Pass, then staying at
Porcupine (a trail camp southwest of Black Mountain camp.)
Great!
We all brightened immediately; it would be a tough day, but we were still
going to get the max we could out of the trek - bear or no bear. We
spent a few more minutes going over the route on the map, and then chatted
with Indiana and Sterling (they had come in around 3:00, during the rain)
about what we were going to do. They both decided to head back down
to Cimarroncito for the rock climbing or the opportunity to do Hidden
Valley
(whichever they hadn't done after leaving Ute Gulch Commissary.)
Also
greeted Marc Lerch, and gave him my last set of strings and a couple of
picks,
since this was our last Staff camp of the trek; he was well pleased.
By this point, it was nearing 8:00, and the Staff came out to start the
"Stomp"
with a group promise to not reveal the "less Scoutlike" aspects of the
evening
(which everyone enthusiastically agreed to), followed by the Cyphers Mine
Tough Man Competition. There was a big difference between here and
Pueblano, however; that being, tall tales were allowed here (recall at
Pueblano
the stories had to be true.) So I dusted off my patented tale of
having
endured the first and second most painful injuries ever suffered by a
Scout
at Philmont (in the interests of keeping my promise to the Staff, details
omitted here.) Suffice it to say that even the Staff cracked up
laughing
at the punchline. So anyway, I won the contest hands-down, and we
headed
down to Charlie Cyphers' cabin for the actual Stomp. As winner of
the
tough-man competition, I had to replace my boots with oversized wooden
clogs,
and
dance to a hot banjo
instrumental. Well, I hammed it up as best I could, with the Staff yelling that
I was the best clogger they had seen all summer. Fortunately, they
stopped the music before I collapsed. After that rousing start, we
went right into
the song repertoire, with Marc being the lead singer and guitarist: 16 Tons, Friend of
the Devil, Folsom Prison Blues, Paradise, Boy Named Sue, Fire on the
Mountain,
Heart of Gold, Tangled Up in Blue, Last Dance with MaryJane, Mama Don't
`low
(a great tune!), Nobody Knows You When You're Down and Out, and the Road
Song (by the Doors.) I may have missed one or two songs, but I think
that was all of them. One or two short stories were mixed in there
as well. All in all, a great time - in fact, the only downer was the
amount of dust we kicked up doing all our stomping! They called it
a night around 9:45, and we headed back down to the shelter. Bed by
10:00,
with a pretty stiff breeze blowing down the draw. It rained twice
overnight,
but only for a few minutes each. Another excellent day - and a nice
kick-save on losing Mt. Phillips, too. But for sure a very long day
coming up tomorrow....