[From the Philmanac - Comanche Pass was used as a trail camp in 1969
and
1970, but is no longer used for camping. It is located at the
intersection
of the trail that leads from Lamberts Mine to Black Mountain Camp and the
trail that leads from Big Red to Bear and Black Mountains. The trail
from Lamberts actually starts off the Middle Fork trail that leads to
Cyphers
Mine; this trail was redone in the late 1980's and is very nice.]
[From the Philmanac - The Bear/Black Saddle Camp was used as a trail camp
from 1969 through 1974, and is located between Bear and Black Mountains at
approximately 9,800 feet elevation. It was a dry camp and was rarely
used because of its rugged and remote location. In recent years, the
only sign atop Black Mountain was one stating "Mount Everest." Bear
(10,663 feet) and Black (10,892 feet) mountains are rarely climbed by
Philmont
expeditions, but they are every bit as challenging as Baldy or Mt.
Phillips.]
[From the Philmanac - North Fork Urraca Camp is a pretty little trail camp
located along the north fork of the Urraca Creek. It was referred to
as Urraca Trail Camp until 1970. There are many interesting side
hikes
in this area. At one time there was a trail leading from the camp
all
the way to the Philmont Reservoir. This trail is no longer in
existence,
and anyone trying this route today is in for a great challenge.
Another
side hike goes to Grizzly Tooth (9,005 feet.) The easiest route goes
up to Shaefers Pass, then west towards Black Mountain for 15 minutes, then
down and left to the formation. Grizzly Tooth is rarely visited, but
is not that difficult to reach (even though there is no formal
trail.)
Another side hike climbs the unmarked Dunn Peak (8,891 feet), between the
camp and Miner's Park. This peak is named for Clarence Dunn, the
founder
of the Philmont Ranger Program, and the Chief Ranger from 1957 through
1970.
An additional challenge is the hike from Dunn Peak down the ridge to the
Lover's Leap Turnaround. This is known as Ranger Ridge, and is a far
better alternative to hiking the aforementioned trail to the Philmont
Reservoir.]
Up at 5:45 am; 55 degrees, but it seemed much warmer than last
night.
Partly cloudy skies, but clearing rapidly, with a moderate breeze.
Was annoyed to have part of the tent wet underneath; Hank and I had
neglected
to make sure that the groundcloth wasn't sticking out, and we paid the
price
with the overnight showers. Woke the Crew at 6:00. Easy packup
today, since everyone else was in the shelter. Circled up at 6:30,
with 4 deer skirting around the camp (doubtless looking for more
urine/salt.)
Hit the road at 6:40, with a farewell to some of the Indiana guys (who
were
taking their bear-bags down as we left.) Retraced our steps to the
Comanche Pass trail intersect we had passed yesterday morning, and stopped
for breakfast there, at 7:10. Nice view down the valley as the sun
rose. Added more of our extra food to this breakfast too, since we
had a tough haul coming up. Gone at 7:30, up and up and up!
Beautifully graded trail, 6 - 8 % the whole way, with marvelous view
behind
us. Sadly, this trail is obviously rarely used - there was grass
growing
in the main tread. What a shame, cause the conservation department
did a super job on it. Of note, we managed to flush another huge
grouse;
this one had been hiding literally alongside the trail - 2 feet from the
Scouts as they passed by - and only flew up to a branch about 20 feet away
when Hank nearly stepped on it. Likely, there are some chicks also
hidden nearby, or it would have flown further away. Made it up to
the
pass without a break, and stopped to grab some water and study the
trail
signs. Not surprisingly, the trail to Bear Mountain didn't look like
it got a lot of use! 3 Minutes and we were on our way - getting an
almost immediate reminder of what bad trail is like - steep and rocky, and
almost no views. Quite a contrast versus the Comanche Pass
trail.
Pushed continuously up to the sub-summit (the trail went a little west of
the actual summit), where a badly chewed up sign laying on a pile of rocks
confirmed that we had indeed made it to Bear Mountain.
Interestingly,
there was lots of pieces of extremely bright quartz laying on and around
the trail at the sub-summit; I grabbed one small rock - to keep my 9th
Baldy
rock company. We headed down into the saddle between Bear and Black,
with some nice views to the distant west, then "enjoyed" a sudden
flashback
to our Baldy climb - a very steep uphill requiring 5 step caterpillaring
the whole way, everyone gasping for breath. Well, they don't call it
"Black Death" for nothing! Made the first (lower) summit, and took
a water break while grabbing some excellent photos of the guys, with the
Cimarroncito Valley a perfect backdrop. 5 Minutes and we were off
again
- still more steep uphill to the second (true) summit, with the last 10
minutes
being a real gut-check. Finally started to level off, and we passed
the ridgeline trail to Shaefers Pass. One last push to the actual
peak,
and a lonely sign marked "Everest." Packs off for everyone - and for
once, I really needed a packs-off break. Chris quickly
found a benchmark - but quite oddly, it didn't list the
altitude.
The map said 10,892 feet, however, so I guess a little geezing was
understandable!
Great vistas to every compass point, under nearly clear skies, beautiful. After 20 minutes (11:00), we
called it a view, and saddled up to head down to Black Mountain
Camp.
We started off on what appeared to be the continuation of the trail we
came
up on from Bear Mountain, but immediately stopped when it literally
dropped
off the side of the mountain. We checked the map - which seemed to
indicate that yes, this was the trail, on the right heading. Chris
indicated there were no other obvious trails on the other side of the
"Everest"
sign, so OK! [Well, not OK!] At 11:15, we headed down this
incredibly
steep trail for about a quarter mile, at which point it seemed to
disappear
into a thick pile of jackstraws. But there was just enough hints of
a trail to lure us on, and we eventually ended up a third of the way down
the mountain before it was clear that we were flat-out bushwhacking.
Pulling the map once again (we could see the Tooth), it was clear we were
too far to the southeast, and needed to push over a spur ridge to our
right
in order to re-intersect the actual trail. Right turn, Clyde.
Steven did the trail-breaking, first with his arms, then with a handy
club.
Tough work literally every step, and we were soon all sporting welts and
scrapes from tripping and sliding our way along. I stopped everyone
every 30 minutes for some enforced water intake, and a break from the
strain
of constant mental concentration. At 1:00, however, we heard our
first
rumble of thunder, and Hank suggested we start
heading down into the draw. Another map break implied that all
the work of the last 2 hours had merely pushed us further to the
southeast.
Since we could see that the opposite slope (the south side of the Tooth
Ridge)
was almost completely clear, we decided to strike across and see if the
going
would be any easier there. One way or another, so much for Black
Mountain
Camp and Porcupine - we were now heading exactly in the wrong
direction.
But although I didn't voice my fears to the Crew, the 2 or 3 distant booms
of thunder sealed my decision - this mess of jackstraws was the absolute
last place to be if a lightning strike started a forest fire below
us.
Even without that (highly remote) possibility, heavy rain would make the
bushwhacking considerably more dangerous. So down into the draw we
went, and were quickly into even more thick brush and jackstraws, very
slow
going. I asked Steven if he needed a break, but no, he was enjoying
himself too much. Seriously. In fact, the whole Crew seemed to
be having a reasonably good time - an unexpected and unique "program"
activity!
Finally made the draw - an almost impassable mess - crossing over a thin
rivulet of blackish water that no-one wanted to risk collecting, even
though
we were running low on water by this point. Amazingly,
we were in the clear 50 feet up the opposite slope - what a difference
between the eastern slope of Black Mountain and the southern slope of the
Tooth of Time ridgeline, very odd in that they're both part of the same
mountain.
We pushed up about 150 yards and finally stopped for lunch and
recovery.
Everyone was pretty beat by this point, with lots of scratches and bruises
on our legs. Per my suggestion, Hank pulled the tarp out in case a
sudden thunderstorm gave us a chance to collect some (reasonably) clean
water.
No such luck, of course - there's never a thunderstorm around when you
really
want one! Pulling the map one more time, it became clear that
pushing
south to the North Fork Urraca trail was a bad idea; it was still a long
haul through thick woods to get there. In contrast, the ridgeline
was
reasonably clear and (although steep) looked easily climbable. A
water
inventory indicated we were badly short, but we had enough to make it to
Shaefers or if need be North Fork Urraca Camp, so long as we rationed it
out properly between the haves and have-nots. No way I was going to
drink the dark swill back in the draw, which looked like a living
advertisement
for Giardia medication. Everyone indicated they were good to go, so
I led off doing "self-generated switchbacks" up the ridge. Quite
surprisingly,
we soon intercepted what appeared to be a very old, long overgrown trail
heading at a perfect angle up the side of the ridge. It was almost
too faint to read, but Brad and I both agreed it was there, and we were
happy
to follow it. This took us nearly 2/3rd's the way up the ridgeline
before we lost it in a draw and maze of patchy scrub oak. I will
have
to check my maps from the early 70's when I get home to see if there
really
had been a trail here, or what. [Aside: My 70's maps indicate
no trails, but the southeastern border of the "Black Mountain Natural
Area"
marked on those maps is just about where our pseudo-trail was located, so
maybe it was an ancient fenceline, eradicated decades ago.] Took a
water break, then headed up the final slope in three 100-step increments,
intercepting the ridgeline trail on the 45th step on the fourth increment,
at 2:15. So 3 hours "lost" taking the false trail off Black
Mountain,
and bushwhacking maybe a mile and a half. I wonder how many other
Crews
had done the same, or worse? - plenty, judging from how well worn that
false
trail was for the first couple of hundred feet. Well, no-one hurt,
and an excellent learning experience for the guys. Another swallow
of water each, and we headed off to Shaefers Pass. Nice views to
both
sides of the ridgeline, and some very pretty meadows in the 2 saddles just
before we reached the actual pass. Walked right into the (nearly
dead)
spring as we reached the camp - several Scouts from a 628 Trek 30 Crew
(who
were at Shaefers Pass for their final night) were there, collecting water
oh-so-slowly from the pipe. Shades of Deer Lake Mesa Camp's spring,
only slower. The 628 Crew guys recognized us; we had met them at
Ewell's
Park the afternoon we arrived there (they had been returning from Baldy as
Chris, Brad and I had been checking out the signs on the north side of the
camp.) Although we didn't say anything, they quickly recognized our
plight, and gave us 2 full liters of their painstakingly collected
supply.
(At this point, we were down to about one last swallow apiece.) That
was extraordinarily generous, and we were very grateful. I insisted
that Andy and David drink a full pint each, since they were clearly
hurting
the worst. I headed up the trail to see if the second "secret"
spring
was flowing better, but it was completely dry. Once I got back, we
saddled up and headed south to the North Fork Urraca Camp, traversing at
least a dozen switchbacks on the way down. Took 45 minutes, but it
was downhill all the way, so easy enough. North Fork Urraca turned
out to be a very small camp - but the creek was 6 feet wide and flowing
well,
perhaps the best sight we had seen in about 8 hours. There were 3
Crews
in camp, but one was leaving for Shaefers Pass in a few minutes. The
other 2 - brother Crews from Kansas - kindly invited us to stay the night,
but I held off on accepting `til I got formal permission from the Staff at
Miner's Park (plus the camp looked too small to handle all 3 Crews, and we
were basically "squatters.") Just about then 3 Rangers came in from
Miner's Park at double-time, looking for 2 "lost" Scouts missing from one
of the Crews up at Shaefers Pass. After they satisfied themselves
that
the 2 Scouts weren't here, I took one of them (Vaughn) aside and explained
our situation, asking what they wanted us to do after we got watered up
and
ate some dinner. Vaughn called Chris (a Senior Ranger) over, and he
said there were no other Crews due in here tonight, so go ahead and park
it. I love a man who can make a command decision! With that,
they headed up to Shaefers Pass. Deferring to the Kansas Crews, I
told
them they had first dibs and asked where they wanted us, since there was
so little space. Fortunately, there were 2 more sites a little
further
up the creek that I hadn't known about, and the larger Crew elected to
camp
there. The other Crew took a large site across the creek, so we had
the small site right at the intersection of the Shaefers Pass and Black
Mountain
Camp trails. We packed it in wall-to-wall (just in case another Crew
did show up), and
started in on
dinner. Chicken Rice tonight. Alarmingly, our Polar Pure appeared to
have expired; either we had used up all the iodine (unlikely), or someone
had mistakenly poured or washed it out at Cyphers Mine or earlier.
After trying to regenerate it by boiling (no luck there), we broke into
our
emergency supply of AquaPure tablets, and used them for the meal (for the
rest of the trek, in fact.) Nice to be ridiculously overprepared, at
least in some things! Just as we said Philmont Grace, our 3 Rangers
returned, with a 4th tagging along - our 2 "lost" Scouts had miraculously
hiked into Shaefers on their own, and found their Crew. The 4th
Ranger
had come up from Clark's Fork. [Aside: The best way for Philmont to
handle this perpetual foolishness is to immediately terminate the treks of
Crews who become separated. Harsh language ain't workin'!]
After
dinner, I headed over to chat with the Kansas Advisors (from both Crews),
who were all having an impromptu Advisor's Coffee by the bridge. I
was hoping they knew what the programs were at Miner's Park - but they had
no idea. It used to be Rock Climbing and Environmental Awareness, if
memory serves me correctly. Chris and Brad joined us, and we talked
about our treks, and the Mt. Phillips bear attack. They both turned
out to also be 628 Crews, and were heading for the Tooth tomorrow, then
Basecamp.
At 8:30, we called it a night, and everyone headed back to their
respective
camps. Crew 3 got quiet quick tonight! - it having turned out to be
a far tougher day than even we had anticipated. At 10:00 on the
nose,
however, I was awakened by yet another Crew, coming down the Black
Mountain
Camp trail and right past our tents. Most were wearing headlamps of
some sort. After about 10 minutes of looking around the site (just
about the time I started to get up to help), they finally figured out that
the space next to us was all that was left, and they went ahead and set
up.
Lucky we hadn't spread out after all! I fell asleep again while they
were still setting up. An otherwise unremarkable night - after a
very
remarkable day!