5:50 am came round way too soon, but I was already up (despite the long
night)
with the growing daylight, noisy bird chorus, and leftover
adrenaline.
52 degrees and just a slight breeze, so actually warmer than when we
(originally)
went to bed. Despite the fatigue, Hank and I got dressed quickly,
and
I was out before 6:00, with a 6 point buck wandering around to greet
me.
Skies slightly misty but clearing rapidly - no sign (or smell) of
woodsmoke.
Woke the entire Crew this morning, starting with Chris and Brad - who
moaned
some with the "early" wake-up call - apparently, they had been
surreptitiously
listening to the hours-long conversation between the Wranglers and I
through
the night, with the regular radio bulletins providing additional
stimulation
to eavesdrop. Despite all the commotion of the previous evening,
however,
the entire Crew was out, dressed, and packing within 10 minutes - the
benefits
of the 8:00 pm bedtime. The Illinois Crew went by at 6:15, heading
down to Clark's Fork and looking a little glum (or maybe just
exhausted.)
I called out some encouragement to them as they passed by; they looked
like
they needed it. No idea if they took the time to re-set up their
tents,
or just tried to meadow-crash on their pads. We were packed and
circled
up at 6:25 ourselves, and gone 5 minutes later, burning up the trail on
the
easy downhill. As expected, there were no signs of any other Crews
at Ponderosa or Upper Clark's Fork, and (of course) no Crews heading
up.
Pulled into Clark's Fork at 7:20 - only 50 minutes from Shaefers Pass,
with
one brief water break; that's moving! As expected, the camp was a
zoo,
with 8 - 10 Crews from the upper staging camps added to the equal or
greater
number who had spent the night there. All told, there were close to
20 Crews stacked up and milling around the cabin by 8:00 am, with an
obviously
tired and rather harried looking staff fending off questions they didn't
have answers to yet. It had clearly been a long night for them as
well.
Said "Hello" once again to Matt, and we chatted briefly; he had a lot
going
on, so I left him to it. Headed over to see Crew 2, who were
already well mixed with Crew 3 and swapping tales of their respective
treks. Rick,
Clay, and the rest of Crew 1 showed up about 8:15, looking surprisingly
bright-eyed
and enthusiastic, and joined the "Arlington crowd."
[Photo:
Michael was also treated to a surprise
crowd-surfing in celebration of his birthday.] All around
us,
Scouts were making the best of it, playing cards, tossing horseshoes,
lassoing
wooden cows, or just sleeping up against their packs or other, less
sympathetic
objects. About 8:45, one of the female staff members made a general
announcement calling the Crew Chiefs and Primary Advisors of all the
Clark's
Fork Crews over to the porch for instructions. The gist of the
announcements
were that the fires had burned themselves out and the Tooth Ridge trail
was
re-opened, so the Crews could go ahead and hike the Tooth as originally
planned,
or (alternately) could head down to the Cimarroncito turnaround by 10:00
am, and take buses back to Basecamp Once everyones' questions were
answered, it was an instant repeat for the Upper Clark's Fork, Ponderosa,
and Shaefers Pass Crews. For these latter Crews, however, the staff
was kind enough to offer additional food to anyone (like us) who didn't
have
a trail lunch because they had expected to already be in Basecamp well
before
noon. The camp quickly exploded into action as all the Crews made their
choices
and started heading out. In our case, however, we were quickly mired
in an internal debate in each Crew between Scouts who wanted to do the
Tooth
and those who wanted to head directly to Basecamp. We quickly came
to the obvious compromise of "mix and match" - only to run into unexpected
resistance by the Staff, who indicated this was "not allowed!" I
maintained
my cool, but the look on my face doubtless spoke volumes. After some
discussion, the staff radioed down to Logistics and got permission for us
to split as desired, but only if we provided rosters for the "new"
Crews.
This was easily accomplished, and we split into one group of 12 (10 Scouts
and 2 Advisors) going to Basecamp by bus, and another of 15 (11 Scouts and
4 Advisors) going over the Tooth. Tim A. and I reluctantly decided
to head directly to Basecamp, since Clay H., David B. and Hank M. had
never
done the Tooth before, and Rick W. really wanted to do the Tooth with both
Chris and Eric. First time in 9 treks that I missed doing the Tooth
of Time - bummer! - but at least it would enable me to get all the
administrative
paperwork for all 3 Crews done at Basecamp (and with such a delayed start,
the earliest anyone was going to make it via the Tooth was about 3:30 pm
- way late for everything that had to be done by 5:00 pm.) With
that,
we traded off all of the remaining food and 1 extra canteen per man from
the Bus group to the Tooth group, in exchange for some of the Crew gear
that
could be pre-sorted at Basecamp. Hopefully, 4 full liters per man
would
keep everyone well hydrated on what was certainly going to be a tough,
hot,
mid-day hike. The "Bus Crew" headed out at about 9:20 or so, with
the
"Tooth Crew" leaving for Shaefers Pass soon thereafter.
[Photos
from the Crew heading to Basecamp over the Tooth:
1,
2,
3,
4] We were just
about the last Crews to depart - Clark's Fork was already back to
its usual mid-morning calm by this point. A fairly quick hike
down to
the
Cimarroncito Turnaround for us - very hot and sunny, with no breeze, but
not unbearable.
Great views of the
north slope of the Tooth of Time Ridge (similar to those you get on
the
Clark's Fork horse ride.) Got to the turnaround at 9:50, with about
8 Crews already in residence, waiting under the trees for the buses.
We were the last Crew to arrive, so I guess about 8 - 10 Crews headed in
over the Tooth. The guys all headed over to drop their packs under
the shade, while I spent about half an hour chatting with the Sterling
Crew.
Mr. H. (their primary Advisor) was still with them, and I complimented him
for sticking it out despite the obvious pain he had been in for the last
half of his trek; backpacking with a ruptured disk is no fun in anyone's
book. Heading back over to the Crew (and thankfully finally removing
my backpack), I wrote some more diary while the Scouts chatted and played
cards. One of the Potomac Area Council Scouts came over to
solicit for reassurance that we weren't going to try and "butt in"
ahead of them
when the buses came - although sorely tempted to tell him 'it's every man
for himself, chump!,' I resisted, and confirmed that yes, indeed, we would
behave as Scouts and take the last bus. Bus # 1 showed up around
10:20,
but only to drop off 2 Crews - it had a 10:30 pickup scheduled at Webster
Lake (???) and couldn't take any of us. Soon thereafter, however,
Bus
# 2 showed up, and 3 or 4 of the smaller Crews crammed in and headed
off.
The bus driver was not very enlightening on when anyone else would be
showing
up, but assured us that we would all eventually get a ride. Bus # 3
came about 20 minutes later, followed within 5 minutes by # 4, then
(hilariously)
4 more empty buses. Guess no-one told them that there were only
about
75 trekkers (3 buses worth) total to pick up. We ended up on bus #
4, getting into Basecamp about 11:20 or so - later than I wanted, but not
critically so. In lieu of Rangers, I did the pack unloading duties
out the back of the bus, and went into the Welcome Center with Tim W. to
get our close-out paperwork and homebound tent assignments (F57-62, good
location, almost right on the end of the trail from the Tooth of
Time.)
Sent everyone over to open up our tents and stow our packs, while I went
over to hit the registration desk to pick up our security envelope (van
keys!),
photos, and other paperwork. Back at the tents, we regrouped and
headed
over to the vans to get all our carry-on luggage, then everyone hit the
showers.
The timing was actually favorable, since the trailbound Crews were all at
lunch, with the homebound Crews close behind, leaving the shower houses
nearly
empty. As always, a scrubbing and clean clothes made everyone feel
like new men, and we straggled over to the Dining Hall piecemeal between
12:15 and 12:25. I stopped at Logistics to thank the staff for
allowing
us the change at Cyphers Mine, catching them just as they were closing up
for lunch. The Dining Hall was half deserted - proof of how many
Crews
were still on the trail to the Tooth or waiting for their bus rides from
the various pickup points around the Ranch. Spaghetti, macaroni with
cheese, green beans, etc. I asked for 1/3rd portions of each, and
(for
a change) ate it all, plus lots of drink mix. Back at the tents, we
headed back over to the vans to collect all the remaining carry-on luggage
for the "Tooth Crew," then separated all the Crew gear in our packs and
put
it under the bunks in Tim A.'s and my tent. Once that was done, I
gave
everyone their release until 3:00 to hit the Trading Post and snack bar,
tasking Tim W. and Kelsey to collect all the bolo ties, patches, arrowhead
protectors and maps for the Crews - warning everyone as they bolted that
this was probably going to be their only good shot at the Trading
Post.
I continued on the administrative rounds, hitting the Post Office, Pack
Rental,
Security Desk, then the Trading Post (to pay for the Crew memorabilia that
Tim and Kelsey had accumulated), then Equipment Check-In (somehow, we were
missing a bottle of Polar Pure, which I had to pay for), and finally the
Ranger Office to leave messages for Laura and Trent. Ran into
(Ranger)
Rob around 2:25 or so, by the Crew lockers - but unfortunately, he only
had
about 30 minutes before he was due to leave with his next Crew, so we had
a rather rushed farewell chat - he was impressed and pleased that we did
"Black Death" after all, and also that we had experienced a great
trek.
Gave him my thanks and a "good luck" for the trail. Stroke of luck
to run into him, but a bummer that he was unable to join us for dinner
after
all. Thunderstorms were starting to brew up around the Ranch by this
point (distant thunder around Black, Bear, and Cimarroncito Mountains),
but
the Tooth itself looked clear thus far. By 3:00, most of the Crew
had returned to the tents, and we started in on separating our carry-on
versus
checked luggage, and repacking the 2 Totelockers with many of the smaller
items of Crew gear. Still no sign of any Crews off the Tooth, so at
3:30 I had Tim A. take Brad and Tim W. over to the Welcome Center to get
Crew 1 and 2's closeout paperwork and start in on it - I should have done
this earlier, but figured our guys would be back by this point. Some
of the Scouts wanted to leave again for the Snack Bar, but I held them
back
on the presumption that our Tooth Scouts would be half-dead by the time
they
arrived, and would need some fresh help when they showed up. At just
about 4:00 on the nose, we heard a robust (and instantly recognizable)
"Arkansas
River Cheer" down by the
"Welcome Back -
You Made It!" sign, and our long
hikers trooped in about 5 minutes later - to my knowledge, the first Crew
of the Day off the Tooth. Pretty amazing, since they had been the
last Crew out of Clark's Fork. We waited til everyone was together,
and
gave them the run-down: tent assignments (1 group of 8 based on Rick
and Clay taking E-13 - E17, and the other of 7 based on Hank and David B.
taking D56 and D61 - D63), the location of their carry-on stuff (in our
tents),
the need to grab showers and hit the trading post quickly, and finally to
reassemble in Class B's by 5:10 at my tent (for dinner in Cimarron.)
I hated to have to push everyone so hard just after they got back, but we
were now under the gun to get everything done in time to hit Simple Simons
and the Cree-Mee in Cimarron before the closing campfire. If it
doesn't
work out, we'll just send one of the Adults down to relay our regrets to
Laura and Trent, and eat at the Dining Hall. Got Chris' and Eric's
Crew Leaders' copies from them (the last things we needed to finish the
close-out
paperwork), and let everyone go. The afternoon thunderstorm finally
boiled over the Tooth of Time and Urraca Mesa, adding even more urgency to
our already tight schedule. Tim A. and I went ahead and pre-ordered
7 jumbo pizzas from Simple Simons by phone, and I headed back to the
Registration
Desk to warn them that a lot of Crews had still not returned off the
Tooth.
Mary checked her files, and confirmed that 9 Crews hadn't checked in yet,
but also that all 9 of them had the "normal" (7:30) breakfast the
following
morning - so no need to keep the check-in stations open late
tonight.
Raining heavily at this point, but the wind and thunder and lightning were
not as fierce as usual. Made a final visit to the Trading Post to
grab
the latest version of Rock Rohrbacher's Philmanac, then returned to the
Post
Office for one last check (no additional mail). Also called Joy
G.
to confirm everyone's safe arrival at Basecamp and check on any urgent
messages
(none). Back at the tents at 5:05, with the rain quickly easing, and
we headed to the vans 10 minutes later. Made it to Simple Simons
about
5 minutes late, and were surprised to find it was outdoor seating under
canopies.
Fortunately, the rain was just about over at this point, and the place was
nearly deserted, so it still worked. Our last pizzas were coming out
of the ovens as we arrived, but they all ended up sitting for an extra
half-hour
while we got water and drinks. [Next time, we'll order those ahead
of time, too.] Laura and Trent were already waiting for us, so we
sat
down and chatted - and filled out our trek evaluations - while we
waited.
Had some spectacular views over the Ranch,
with sunshine illuminating luminous curtains of rain; a neat
effect.
We finally got all our drinks, and then the pizzas, just after 6:00 - the
pizzas were only warm by this point, but were still excellent (and
certainly
better than the Dining Hall fare!) Ordered 3 more pizzas after the
initial round disappeared; those extras were just enough to satisfy
everyone.
After spending a few minutes cleaning up (our mess, plus everyone else's
too), we headed off to the
Cree-Mee
for Michael's birthday bash. Laura and Trent, however, headed
directly
back to camp, since Trent was off for the next 2 days and was anxious to
get on the road. At the Cree-Mee, David B., Hank and I spent about
half an hour vacuuming out the passenger vans at a nearby car-wash while
everyone else ordered. The rugs were pretty nasty at this point, and
I didn't want to get stuck with cleanup charges in Denver. I
returned
to the Cree-Mee just in time to hear the trailing chorus of a rousing
"Happy
Birthday to You!" to Michael. We oinked `til 7:30, then headed back
to the Ranch, making a brief stop for a few pictures of
some Philmont buffalo who had wandered down close to Rt. 21.
Back
at camp, we had about 20 minutes before the Closing Campfire - time enough
to hit the bathrooms, grab some warm clothes from our tents, and
redistribute
some of the larger crew gear items for re-packing into backpacks.
Laura
re-joined us at the assembly, and we headed down to the campfire; since we
were at the back of the assembly, we were nearly
first in line for the campfire (go figure.) The program was
reasonably
decent, starting off with a couple of hard-rock songs ("We Are The
Champions"
and "Hey!") to get everyone fired up; in honor of his birthday,
Michael
was "crowd-surfed" up to the top of the amphitheater, with me racing
alongside
to serve as emergency spotter. After some introductory remarks, we
enjoyed the usual half-dozen skits, then things quieted down for the
recognition
of the
Crew Chiefs and Advisors, and
the awarding of the Arrowhead patches. Another thunderstorm south of
Urraca Mesa offered an occasionally brilliant backdrop, as did the backlit
Tooth of Time ridgeline. We closed out with the Philmont hymn, then
we grabbed some
"Contingent" photos
in front of one of the stage backdrops before heading back to the
tents.
Spent a minute helping one Crew recover some of their Arrowhead patches
from
the trail - their Crew Chief had inadvertently held the envelope upside
down
as he was walking, and several patches had fallen out. Luckily, he
was at the end of the line, and it wasn't raining (we'll call this a
"near-death
experience!") Said our final farewells to Laura at the tents (hope
to see her again in 2002!), and gave everyone their release to head over
for the traditional final fling at the Snack Bar. I spent the next
hour sorting gear and paperwork, and distributing the last large Crew gear
items to returning Scouts, before heading over to the Advisor's Lounge to
complete my final evaluations and write some more diary. Tim A. and
Clay were both relaxing and chatting in the lounge when I came in, but the
place was fortunately otherwise pretty much deserted (Thank You
Lord!)
Didn't want to have to listen to a bunch of whining Charley-Alpha-Alpha's
while I was writing. The long night at Shaefers Pass was starting to
catch up with me by this point, and it was a struggle to finish everything
without doing a face-plant on the tabletop. Tim and Clay left around
11:15, and I wrapped up around midnight. Dropped off the evals at
the
Welcome Center and picked up a broom (the night guy also signed off and
took
our close-out paperwork), then headed back to the tents. Decent
stars,
but clouds still obscured most of the sky. Pleasantly cool, so I
left
one of the tent flaps open. My, my, didn't take long to fall asleep
tonight. No coyotes.