Note - From here through mid-Monday, July 10th, this diary primarily
covers
Crew 3.
[From the Philmanac - Six Mile Gate is so named because it is located
6 miles from U.S. Rt 64. It is located on the border between
Philmont
and the WS Ranch (Vermejo Park.) Six Mile Gate was used as a trail
camp in the early 1970's, but is now just a drop-off point for crews going
to the Anasazi or McBride Canyon Starting Camps (and also a pick up point
for some itineraries ending at Indian Writings or Ponil.)]
[From the Philmanac - Indian Writings is located in the North Ponil
Canyon,
about 4 miles north of 6 Mile Gate. It is named for the Anasazi
Indian
Petroglyphs which exist in this area. The Indians left this area
around
1300 A.D. This was the main site of the 1941 Philturn Archaeological
Expedition that explored and catalogued the unique artifacts in the
area.
At the primary dig, a pit house, slab house and a burial site were
meticulously
excavated. Indian Writings is one of the oldest camps in Philmont,
and was first opened in 1939 as part of the original Philturn Rocky
Mountain
Scout Camp. In its early years, Indian Writings was called
"Scribblin's"
(after the petroglyphs.) Today, the program features archaeological
digging under staff supervision, plus petroglyph tours and a museum
tour.]
[From the Philmanac - Ponil was the original base camp for the Philturn
Rocky
Mountain Scout Camp (the forerunner to Philmont), and was run as such
during
the summers from 1939 to 1941. Ponil was named after the "Apache
Plume,"
a knee-high bushy plant which has 5 points - just as five canyons converge
at this point (South Ponil, Horse, Cedar, and both ends of Middle
Ponil.)
Not surprisingly, this site was initially referred to as "Five
Points."
The traditional program at Ponil has been Horseback Riding and Western
Lore.
The camp was also the site of Philmont's original Rock Climbing Program,
from 1967 to 1971, and is currently the host to a Commissary, a Trading
Post
and a Cantina, the latter of which was started in 1977. A Chuckwagon
Dinner was also started at Ponil in 1990, and a Flyfishing program added
in 1996. Campfire programs or Cantina shows have been featured some
years. Ponil has more cabins than any other camp at Philmont, about
a dozen in all - some of which date back to the Philturn period.
Numerous
historical artifacts and pictures of the early days of Ponil and nearby
camps
are located in the Trading Post, which doubles as a museum.]
[From the Philmanac - Sioux has been used as a starting camp since 1979,
when it replaced Four Mile Camp. It is a satellite camp of nearby
Ponil,
and is a relatively short hike from the Ponil Turnaround. Lower
Sioux
is located alongside Middle Ponil Creek, while Upper Sioux is a couple of
hundred feet up the side of the southern side ridge.]
Up at 5:40 - but I had already been awakened an hour earlier by several
Crews
departing from homebound tent city. One moron had let the lid on the
dumpster next to my tent slam down around 2 am. My chiding rebuke
was
answered with a muttered "sorry" as the miscreant fled towards the parking
lot. Got Chris and Brad up to wake the rest of the Crew, then
finalized
my pack and swept out the tent. A beautiful morning, 56 degrees -
"It's
Perfect Again." Off to the Dining Hall, where we linked up with
Laura
and "enjoyed" a dubious looking (and smelling) ham and eggs
breakfast.
I passed in favor of drink mix and some fruit. Well, as I always
say,
the Dining Hall fare makes you really appreciate the trail food....
Done quickly, and back to the tents. Everyone finished packing their
last carry-on luggage, swept out, then saddled up and headed to the vans
(to drop off those last items.) Then down to the Welcome Center to
set up a pack line and
hang out for a few
last minutes. I stayed behind for a few more minutes, filled out
the Security Envelope information, frantically wrote some more diary `til
7:25 (finishing up June 28th), grabbed all my stuff and headed for the
vans.
Dropped off my carry-on, then checked the windows and re-locked all 4
vehicles.
Linked up with Hank, and we headed down to the Security Hut to drop off
the
Security Envelope - but no, they take them at the Registration Desk now
(not
sure if that was new or if I'd forgotten how it was in `98, but OK.)
Hank ended up taking the envelope while I headed directly to the Welcome
Center to take a few last "assembly" photos and check to see if all 3
Crews
were on the same bus (we were supposed to be.) Our bus and one other
arrived at 7:50, the first buses of the day (and the only 8 am buses), and
yes, all 3 of the 629-B Crews were together, heading for 6-Mile
Gate.
Rob and Trent did the
pack loading
duties, and we all piled in for
the drive
out. After playing "Tour Guide, Tour Guide, who's gonna be the Tour
Guide?,"
Trent self-elected, with Rob and Laura chiming in on occasion. All
3 were a little weak on the standard spiel, but then again I suppose
that's
obvious only to veterans (like me) who have been to 6-Mile Gate or the
Ponil
Turnaround a half-dozen times. Rattled our way to the dropoff,
finding
one filthy, exhausted looking Crew in residence, clearly very much ready
to go home. [After they left, I told everyone "Don't you dare look
like that when we hike into Basecamp!"] Gave everyone the biannual
6-Mile Gate Barbed-Wire Fence Warning, so no-one tore any holes in
their packs. The Crews split up into
discussion groups, and
Laura
started right in on hiking protocols. Crew 2 left within 10 minutes
for McBride Canyon; we left for Indian Writings about 5 minutes later,
with
Crew 1 a few minutes behind us. Judging from the quick departures of
all 3 Crews, Philmont has obviously instructed the Rangers not to do the
usual endless teaching sessions after getting off the buses. No
complaints
here! Over
the cattle guard
steps
in short order, and on the trail at last. Left my troubles and cares
hanging on the barbed-wire fence, which was a damn good place for
them.
We hit North Ponil Creek a minute later - no beaver dams this year, and
also
no freshly downed trees; guess they've moved on, or became dinner for
something
a little higher up the food chain. My favorite cactus was still
present,
looking a heck of a lot better than it did in `98. Unfortunately, it
wasn't quite in bloom - looked like it would be spectacular in about 4 or
5 days, though; sorry I missed it. Got down to the
Tyrannosaurus Rex
footprint in less than 20 minutes, and dropped our packs for a
look-see.
Excellent - they thoroughly weeded inside the fence this year, so everyone
got a good view. Matt wanted to climb the ridge to see if he could
find the reverse imprint; I guaranteed him that a thousand archaeologists
had already spent a couple of man-years looking (with no luck.) Took
a few photos and headed back down just in time to intercept Crew 1.
Spent a minute or two indoctrinating Rick and Clay on what they were
seeing
and how to explain it to the Crew, and we hit the trail. Walked
through
Anasazi (another starter camp), no-one present, and again lost the thread
of the main trail among the campsite trail maze. Finally did a minor
bushwhack down to the road (crossing the stream), and pushed on to Indian
Writings. Beautiful, deep blue sky, but getting hot quickly.
As we passed the kiva dig site, we stopped and reviewed the Staff Camp
entry
protocol, then continued on to the staff cabin, arriving 10:20 (Good
time!)
Chris, Brad and Laura headed up to the cabin, and managed to get the
"last"
slot on the 11:00 am Petroglyph tour - good news for us, but not for Crew
1. Well, if they get here in time, we'll see! Since we still
had about half an hour before the tour, we went ahead and snagged
lunch.
The water at Indian Writings was nasty - bad tasting and giving an
immediate
bellyache; I certainly don't remember it being like this in years
past!
It actually seems to be generating some kind of gas. Between this
and
the revolting aftertaste from my eye drops (for the laser surgery), I'm
thoroughly
nauseated. Hope the water at Ponil/Sioux is better, or it's gonna be
a long couple of days. Crew 1 arrived at 10:50; I ran over and told
Rick and Eric to hustle on up and beg their way onto the 11:00 am tour -
which they did, successfully - good deal. They had to grab their
canteens
and go immediately, but that's a lot better than waiting `til 1:00
pm!
The tour got going just after 11:00;
the
"interpreter"
was Drew Coffin - certainly an intriguing name for an
archaeologist!
Laura, Rob and 1 other Ranger tagged along. Of immediate note at the
first stop, one of the other Crew's Scouts (all small and young) were
clearly
already done for - sitting off to the side where they couldn't see the
glyphs,
staring off into space, or doodling in the dirt, paying no attention to
the
tour. "Eat your peas, boys." [Hard to believe they all made
the
mandatory minimums; looked like a bunch of 12 and 13 year olds - gonna be
a long trek, there, if they're looking like this on Day 2!] Drew was
a pretty decent guide, giving some basic history and trying to elicit
guesses
from the Scouts on what each
petroglyph
might mean. Of course, Brad, Chris and Dan chimed in with "highly
accurate" guesses, since they had been there before - but Drew managed to
quell that too, with the exception of the "woman giving birth" comments
made
infamous during the 1998 tour. I stepped in to put an end to that
before
they got too obnoxious. Of real interest to me, Drew claimed that
several
glyphs that I had always been told were "Scout glyphs" were in fact
actually
Anasazi petroglyphs. This included the "No Parking" circle with a
slash,
and "Electrical Outlet" double circle with 2 horizontal bars. Not
wanting
to contradict him on the tour, we discussed this privately as we moved on
to the next set of glyphs. I think I'll hold off on accepting his
word
on it, though; if nothing else, they look too new (and shallow) to
me!
Drew had also not heard the possible explanation that the person inside
the
pit house glyph might be a
representation
of the small female that had been excavated from under that same house,
but
he agreed that was certainly possible. As we headed for the pit
house,
he pointed out the location of the Jicarilla
Apache horse glyph, but the light was too poor to make it out from the
road. Something to examine more closely someday when I spend the
night
here. With that, we did the pit house, then
the slab house, then the ruins of the cabin, where Drew reminded me of
something I had forgotten - that being, that one of the clues that the
residents
of this cabin had been forcibly evicted during the Colfax County Land Wars
(in the late 1800's) was the fact that all the windows had been smashed
inwards.
Finally, we reviewed a small stone oven, and looked over various artifacts
from the railroad that had served the logging company in the late
1800's.
All in all, a good tour - and once again illustrating the amazing
millennium-long
history of this tiny little valley. With that, we headed back to the
staff cabin, tanked up on the nasty water, and hit the trail for Hart
Peak.
Crew 1 stayed behind to eat lunch before leaving. Tough uphill out
of Indian Writings, aggravated by the mid-day sun beating hard on us -
they
don't call this "The Stairmaster" for nothing! Laura quickly
impressed
with the Caterpillar technique, especially when we did the entire uphill
section without a break (ah, another convert!) 20 Minutes of hard
hiking,
then the trail eased into switchbacks with a more reasonable grade.
Nice views behind us, under a deep blue sky with big fluffy white clouds
- like a laser enhanced postcard. The trail settled into a steady
but
gentle uphill, between 4 and 8 percent grades, and we just flew.
Only
stop was for a
decent sized
rattlesnake, which was lying on the trail as we approached. After giving the
usual
notice to Chris (nothing sounds like a rattlesnake!), it slithered off to
the left, ending up under a log. I got some decent pictures, and we
moved on. 1 Hour and 20 minutes to the summit, great time
(especially
for our first day!) Unusual
views
(different angles) of most of the higher peaks made it worth the
sweat.
No signs of thunderstorms, so we took a packs-off break to water up and
enjoy
the view. 20 Minutes and we're off to Ponil, again a nice
trail.
Some spots would have made decent campsites - if there was any
water.
Into the camp, surprisingly semi-deserted; normally, this place is jumping
in the afternoon. Unfortunately, the water seemed cursed with the
same
affliction that was present at Indian Writings. Hit the Cantina,
where
I bought one round of root beer and a candy bar for everyone, including
Laura.
Only one other Crew was in the Cantina, plus 2 or 3 stray Scouts, hanging
out. Had a few sips of root beer myself, which was a bad mistake
quickly
announced by my guts, sigh. Laura headed over to the Staff Cabin,
and
got permission from the Camp Director to come back for the Cantina Show
(starting
at 8 pm), even though that meant an after-dark return to Sioux. Good
deal there! 30 Minutes in all, and we hit the trail for Sioux, a
flat
20 minute hike. Took the campsite in the lower camp which was the
closest
to Ponil in order to make the night walk a bit easier.
The site map was a bit confusing in that it wasn't clear if we were
actually
in Sioux, or rather in the furthest Ponil campsite - but it hardly
mattered,
since we had all of lower Sioux to ourselves. If there are any other
629/Trek 30 Crews, they must have gone ahead and pushed up to Upper
Sioux.
Nice site, with a decent amount of grass, and not too many flies (the
usual
bane of camping near Ponil.) I asked Laura to watch the Crew do camp
setup on their own (showing her what they already knew); she agreed, and
everyone went at it with a will, quickly yanking and sorting Crew gear,
starting
dinner, getting the
bear-bags up, and
setting up the tarp "lean-to" style in order to block off the wind
(blowing
a pretty good clip towards Ponil.) Laura watched carefully, with
just
a few comments here and there; she told me later it was nice to have a
properly
trained Crew for a change. [Why Thank You!] The afternoon
thunderstorm
finally brewed up, but far down the valley to the east, no threat to
us.
Dinner was macaroni and cheese and minestrone soup, plus the usual extras,
not bad. In contrast to the increasingly common practice, we cooked
each item separately, so it was a decent meal. Held off on the Hot
Fruit Cobbler, however - too sweet, and everyone was already full anyway
(or maybe saving room for Cantina candy bars!) Spurred by David, the
conversation somehow ended up on illicit drugs, and I spent some time
educating
everyone on this endlessly fascinating topic. Crew 1 finally came on
by around 5 pm, just as we were getting ready to clean up - still had
another
20 minutes to Bent. I ran over and asked if they needed our help,
but
Rick and (Ranger) Rob both said no, they'd be fine, so OK! We went
ahead and did KP, set up the tents, put up the bear-bags, and did a
partial
camp breakdown, including taking the tarp down. Most of the Crew
then
headed up to a small overlook on the north side of the canyon, laughing
and
yelling down from the crest. Chris was one of the first ones down,
so I grabbed him, Hank, Brad, and Laura, and we held a brief PLC to
discuss
the day and the morrow. Laura was pretty happy with the Crew,
enthusiastic
about our desire to maximize our trek, and had no real criticisms.
The rest of the Crew gathered around as we were finishing up, so we went
right into a session of Roses, Thorns and Buds, which went reasonably
well.
Warm gear for everyone and we headed off to Ponil around 7:30, arriving at
the Cantina at 7:45. Already crowded and "sweaty" inside; we ended
up sitting on the floor at the very front, great seats, eh? Most of
Crew 1 joined us a few minutes later. The show got started rather
fitfully,
with the staff finally fully assembled around 8:15 or so. The
usual array of songs and poems; one was a pretty interesting outlaw
story
with a refrain including "Jesse with the long hair hanging down."
I'll
have to see if I can get that one when I get home. They also did
Country
Roads and a few other standards, a piano instrumental, plus an original
song,
"The Burro" (a parody of the song "Meet Virginia.") Very
funny.
Ended with "Good Riddance" by Green Day ["I Hope You Have the Time of Your
Life"] - a little hokey, but it worked, and many of the Scouts sang
along.
When it was over, Eric asked permission to
play the piano and wowed everyone with 3 dynamite instrumentals,
really
hot [#1 was "Firedance," #2 was an untitled original composition, and #3
was "Bumble Boogie."] About half the crowd stuck around, enthralled,
including a couple of young ladies who were just mesmerized. Guys
later
ranked on Eric for not having the initiative to dedicate a song to the
girls;
they would have swooned. We left together around 9:30, hiking back
to Sioux. Chilly now, but not ridiculous. Crew 1 continued on
to Bent, while most of Crew 3 took a few minutes to clean today's hiking
clothes. Bed by 10:15, with Steven and Matt yelling about a
mini-bear
attacking their tent, keeping us all up `til about 10:30. Nice stars
mixed with a few clouds, light breeze, 48 degrees. Took a few Maalox
before racking out, which helped a bit. A great day, and a great
start
to the trek. 8 miles of backpacking (instead of 1 1/2), plus
the Petroglyph Tour,
Hart Peak, and the Ponil Cantina Show - not bad, not bad at
all. Tomorrow one of the most inspirational hikes Philmont
has to offer - Wilson Mesa.