[From the Philmanac - Wilson Mesa is not part of Philmont, but is
rather
located adjacent to Philmont in the Elliott Barker Wildlife Area (which is
managed by the New Mexico State Department of Fish and Game.)
Elliott
Barker was the New Mexico State Game Warden from 1935 to 1953. The
mesa is believed to have been named after W.P. Wilson, an Army Captain
assigned
to the Cimarron Indian Affairs Agency in 1870. There are several
small
lakes on top of the mesa, and it is known for its spectacular views of
Baldy
Mountain. There are numerous relics of early settlers on the mesa
(including
several gravesites.)]
[From the Philmanac - Pueblano is Spanish for Little Village. It was
also part of the original Philturn Rocky Mountain Scout Camp. Until
1963, the western edge of Philmont was just beyond Pueblano; the addition
of the Norton Clapp purchase of the Baldy Mountain Tract allowed Scouts to
hike and climb Baldy Mountain. In the early 70's, the program was
Hunter
Safety and 30.06 Rifle Shooting. Pueblano returned to trail camp
status
in 1975 and 1976, and then reopened in 1977 as a staff camp with the
Maxwell
Tie and Lumber Company program; this name was changed to the Continental
Tie and Lumber Company in 1980. This latter name matched that of the
company started by Thomas Schomburg in 1907 to make railroad ties and mine
timbers from the trees in the many Ponil Canyons. He also
established
the Cimarron and Northwest Railroad to transport the timbers down to
Cimarron.
The Continental Tie and Lumber Company worked the North Ponil Canyon `til
1923, and the South Ponil Canyon `til around 1930. The tracks ended
in North Ponil Canyon near Ponil Park, and in South Ponil Canyon near
Pueblano
Ruins. The present-day program consists of spar-pole climbing,
tie-yard,
and the Philmont Story Campfire; Pueblano is also the mid-point for the
Ponil/Miranda
Burro Packing Program. The tool shelter in the tie-yard was actually
built as the shelter for the 30.06 Rifle Shooting program. The
canyon
heading south to Head of Dean is known as Doe Canyon; a large Douglas Fir
located at the beginning of the canyon is affectionately known as "Big
Doug."]
Up at 4:50, after the usual fitful first night of sleeping on the
trail.
Clear, 42 degrees, light breeze. It had ended up being a great night
for stars, after midnight and dewfall. The planets were quickly
fading
into dawn as Chris and I did the wakeup chores (at 5:00) and sorted the
bear-bags.
Most of the Crew was packed up by 5:30, but Andy and Matt were
dragging.
We also lost time refilling all our canteens, since the tap was 100 yards
away (another task which we all should have done the night before.)
Unfortunately, the tap water was no better tasting (or smelling) after
travelling
up the pipes from Ponil. Our clothes were still wet from last
night's
washing - no surprise with all the dew - so we hung them off the packs to
dry as we hiked. We finally circled up at 6:05 to camel up and do
our
stretches, with the Philmont veterans clearly exasperated with the lengthy
delay. Brad led the exercise routine, while we discussed how we had
done on camp breakdown (lousy) and what we could do to improve things (a
lot.) I think Laura was somewhat amused that we were upset for
taking
"a whole hour" to get out of camp, since most of her previous Crews got up
much later, took 2 to 3 hours to get their collective acts together, and
thought nothing of it. OK for them I guess. Once we were
stretched,
we went ahead and did a "grass fluff" on our tentsites, then a camp sweep
for trash, and finally saddled up and hit the road at 6:20. No
burros
for us, thank's anyway! - we're off for Wilson Mesa. Quickly up the
road to the Middle Ponil Creek crossing - but it was shallow and easily
forded
today. Got into Bent literally just as Crew 1 was walking out of
their
campsite - so we immediately joined forces for the hike up to the
Mesa.
Guys all renewed their ragging on Eric for not hitting on his 2 "groupies"
last night; he just grinned. Hard left, and we're off for the Mesa
- another tough uphill climb, and much longer than yesterday's hike out of
Indian Writings. Started caterpillaring immediately, and trekked all
the way to the top without a break (again). There was a surprising
amount of burro crap on the trail - obviously, a number of Crews were
violating
the "No Burros Over Wilson Mesa" edict (either that or Philmont has
rescinded
this rule.) At 7:30, we stopped and enjoyed breakfast. Back on
the trail within 25 minutes, arriving at the firebreak after another 15
minutes
hiking. I had everyone circle up, called for absolute quiet,
and asked each member of the Crew to do a slow, reflective walk about
1/3rd
of a mile up to the rocks at the crest, and to look around and just soak
up the vista. [The firebreak resulted from a fierce forest fire
about
20 years ago, sparked by a lightning strike - a natural disaster which
gave
Philmont a natural wonder, as fantastic mountain views loom at every
quadrant,
particularly Mt. Baldy to the immediate
west; it's one of the top 5 views
in all Philmont.] Sent Brad first, since he knew where to stop, then
everyone else in 30 second increments. It was a perfect day for it
- deep blue skies, with nary a cloud. Once we were all regrouped at
the rocks, I launched into my "Legacy of Philmont" talk - my best version
ever, according to Rick.
Laura followed
with a challenge quote from Anne Franke, and invited each trekker to
give a few comments on why they were here - and what were they
expecting?
Good comments all around; to my surprise, Clay got pretty emotional
in his remarks, indicating that he was fulfilling a childhood dream.
Rob finished with comments on being closer to God here than anywhere else
on earth, and Laura handed out the Wilderness Pledge cards to Crew 3 (Rob
decided to wait `til later tonight.) With that, we did a little more
training on map reading and triangulation, plus lightning safety. I
reviewed the North Country expansion map with Rick, since they were off to
Rich Cabins, and he also wanted to discuss his hikes for the following 2
days to see if there was any way to get more challenging hikes or
additional
programs in by picking different trails. Another Crew showed up
behind
us around this time, so it was time to move on. Grabbed a quick set
of
tentmate
"mommie-shots" with Baldy and Touch-Me-Not in the background, then took
our
leave of Crew 1, heading towards
the
lake
and Pueblano. Surprisingly, we ran into another Crew at the lake -
a Trek 24 Crew (same as Crew 1) from Illinois, who had just come down from
Rich Cabins. Big guys, but some were already looking pretty whipped,
with one bitching about "having" to go climb Baldy, as he pointed towards
the mountain. Unbelievable. I offered a minute's worth
of
"go get `em" encouragement, emphasizing how great a trek they were on (24
is very similar to the old Trek 13, which had been one of the most popular
treks ever on the Ranch.) I turned back to set up our classic Crew
shot with
the lake and Baldy in the
background. Laura did the honors
on this one, so (for a change) I'm in it. With that, we bid "good
hiking"
to Illinois, and headed right back out. Right turn after the fence
(we debated whether to go check out the gravesites along the rim above
Pueblano,
but decided to pass), and down to Pueblano. Great "over your
shoulder"
views of Baldy up South Ponil Canyon as we were descending. Quickly
into camp (11 am), chatting briefly with a Trek 29 Crew from North
Carolina
who were just leaving for Flume Canyon; they looked hard-charging and
enthusiastic.
Everyone got invited on the porch for the usual camp orientation
talk.
Two bears near the camp, but neither was a problem. We got the first
afternoon spar-pole session (1 pm), then headed on over to our assigned
campsite
(with a stop to replace our Ponil water with the local brew; much more
palatable;
the Pueblano Staff referred to what we were carrying as "Ponil-Fart-Water"
- all things considered, a pretty accurate description!) Site 4 was
a nice flat area, with small grassy meadows on each side offering some
great
tentsites. Only bummer was an extreme surplus of flies -
fortunately,
however, most were just standard houseflies - only a small minority were
a different, biting type. Andy and I stopped counting after a
hundred
confirmed kills apiece. After doing a Crew gear dump, laying out our
still dew-wet tents, and hanging up our laundry, we grabbed lunch.
Laura and I decided to pass on the spar-poles to watch our gear; Laura
wanted
to catch some sleep, and I wanted to do some more diary writing.
This
would have been my 6th or 7th spar-pole session, so taking a pass was not
a big deal. Brad and Hank handled the photo duties.
[Photos: 1,
2,
3] I headed up to
the Staff cabin around 12:30 to dump excess food and trash, and chatted
briefly
with "Topper," putting in a request for guitar playing later on. The
Crew left around 12:45 - and by 12:50, we had our first mini-bears coming
to check out our stuff. One extremely persistent squirrel appeared
determined to sample Laura's toes, and had to be chased off 3 or 4
times.
Missed one of the local bears, just 150 yards down the trail - apparently,
he ran between Sites 2 and 3. We heard the Crews in those sites
yelling,
but that was it. A few minutes later we heard the first screams of
Crew 3 on the poles, with occasional "Laura"'s and "David"'s echoing
through
the camp. Looks like someone's got a crush. A great sky - deep
blue skies with fluffy white clouds drifting along, no signs of a
thunderstorm.
A steady breeze with occasional stronger gusts kept things
cool.
I polished off the last of a full liter of Pueblano water, which seemed to
ease my stomach a little bit. Topper came by on his way down to
check
out the bear at Sites 2/3, and stopped to chat with Laura for a few
minutes
(probably to check whether we had our act together with respect to bear
safety,
since everything was still laying out.) The Crew returned at 3:15,
having done both the spar-poles and the Continental Tie and Lumber Company
programs; cool!
[Photos: 1,
2,
3] They also regaled Laura and I with the story of their
fellow Crew at the programs - who bitched and moaned the whole time that
the Advisors were "making" them do the programs, and also about how tough
their trek was; to add insult to injury, their Advisors were mocking their
complaints at the Continental Tie and Lumber Company. Pretty funny
to watch, according to our guys (who didn't have a lot of sympathy,
either.)
Since it was still relatively early, and it was clearly not going to rain,
some of the guys went ahead and set up their tents to take a fly-free nap,
while others headed down to the stream with Laura, doing an impromptu
environmental
awareness session. Laura showed everyone a weed which numbed the
lips
and tongue if rubbed on them; first time I've ever heard of this topical
anesthetic plant. Dinner tonight was "Stew with Beef" and (again)
Minestrone.
Done by 6:15, and I again headed over to the Staff cabin for a trash
dump.
Most of the Staff was on the porch, and I was quickly drawn into the
conversation,
chatting for about 30 minutes, and asking about several staff members from
some of my earlier treks. Turns out that Spencer was getting married
in Albuquerque on July 24th, so wasn't working at the Ranch this
year.
In addition, Jeremy Spivey had hung up his spurs and (they thought)
returned
to school - as he had planned, if I remember right. Talking about
Spencer
and Jeremy helped thaw the Staff a little bit towards me (it being pretty
obvious that I wasn't a one-time Advisor), and they invited me to come
back
a little earlier than the Advisor's Coffee to play guitar. I headed
back to camp, and grabbed my sheet music, plus a set of strings and a few
picks, and headed back. Invited the guys to come along, but they
were
in the middle of doing a complete camp breakdown before the campfire
program,
and truthfully didn't seem too interested anyway, so I left them to it and
returned to the cabin about 7:10 or so. A couple of Advisors were
already
sitting on the porch, but the staff was still inside finishing
dinner.
Topper lent me his guitar, and I ran through my standard 20 song
repertoire,
getting "polite" applause from a growing cadre of Advisors. Well, I
enjoyed myself, anyway, and the Staff seemed to like my different takes on
some Philmont standards. Topper took his guitar back at 7:50, so he
could tune it up before the campfire program. Thanked him and gave
him a new set of strings and a couple of picks (even though he tried to
say
no); strings and picks can be tough to come by in the backcountry, and
that's
a fact. Chatted for about 20 minutes with some of the Advisors who
had been more into my music; they were interested in our various changes
(and planned changes) for our trek. When I said we were hoping to
expand
our trek to 90 miles, everyone kind of grimaced, and I gave them the line
from Ponil's Cantina Show the night before: "Hey, go home
exhausted!"
- adding that they'd all be wishing they were back here after a week at
work.
The campfire got going about that time, starting with laying out 4 lit
lanterns
(still no fires allowed under the prevailing drought restrictions.)
First up was the famous Pueblano "Tough Man" competition, with a twist
this
year in that your story had to be true and "acceptable for a Scout
audience."
Guess they must have had a few problems on that during the previous
couple of weeks! 8 Scouts and 1 Advisor joined in. Andy
participated,
regaling the audience about suffering a dog attack on his face as a child,
which pushed him to the top 3. The other finalist was a Scout from
Indiana (from one of our brother Trek 30 Crews, though we didn't know it
yet) who had been involved a terrible car wreck with a
tractor-trailer.
The winner turned out to be a Scout from California who got himself carved
up with box-knives by 3 gang-bangers who were beating up a younger
kid.
(More than likely, he interrupted an initiation rite.) Pretty
stupid,
but it's hard to fault someone with such a noble heart. Lucky he
wasn't
killed or really badly disfigured. Once that was done, we moved into
the
actual campfire program. As
always, a really excellent set of songs and skits, but (again) too
long.
Many of the songs appeared to be original or highly adapted
material.
I started to pass out around 9:30, and headed back to camp about 15
minutes
later, under partly cloudy and partly starlit skies - but most of the Crew
shut the place down, returning to camp around 10:15 or so, reporting "a
great
time!" 48 degrees and a pleasant breeze, with the creek a distant
chuckle.
A great day! I slept very well tonight.