[From the Philmanac - Baldy Town was a small mining community that
existed
on and off from 1868 to 1940. It was the center of a prosperous
mining
district, with the largest of the mines being the mighty Aztec (which had
seven different levels to it.) Mine tours are now given on Level 2
of the French Henry side of the Aztec Ridge. At one time, there were
over 20 structures that comprised Baldy Town; you can see pictures of the
town in its heyday in the Baldy Town Museum. All that remains today
are the foundations of some of the buildings, and the rubble that was once
the Aztec Mill (which was destroyed by fire in 1923.) There are
signs
of mining activity all around the Baldy area, including dumps from other
mines such as the Rebel Chief and the Montezuma. Baldy Camp was
purchased
as part of the 10,098 acres donated by Mr. Norton Clapp in 1963, and is
now
used as the site of a Commissary and Trading Post. The Commissary is
on the site of the old Baldy Town School, and was renovated in the fall of
1995. The current Trading Post was built in 1982. The
foundation
of the old Baldy Town Hotel is located just north of the current Baldy
Town
Museum. Baldy Camp also has propane showers. It is the last
source
of purified water before the trek over Baldy Mountain (elevation:
12,441
feet.) Baldy is the highest point in Philmont, and offers tremendous
views of Wheeler Peak (the highest point in New Mexico at 13,160 feet),
the
Moreno Valley and Eagle Nest Lake to the south, and the southern portion
of Philmont (including the Tooth of Time.) Crews climbing the summit
should depart Baldy Town by no later than 8:00 am, and should carry rain
gear, water and food. Both sides of Baldy Mountain are difficult
climbs;
however, the Copper Park side is more steep.]
[From the Philmanac - French Henry is named for Henri Buruel, who obtained
mining rights from Lucien Maxwell in the 1860's and operated the French
Henry
Mine on the ridge above Copper Park. The remains of his cabin are
still
in the location. The French Henry Mine is a 60 foot vertical
shaft.
Buruel encountered trouble because there was no mill to work his
ore.
Maxwell was too busy at Baldy Town, and the closest other mills were at
Denver
and El Paso. This area was purchased for Philmont as part of the
Baldy
Tract in late 1962. The first staff member was stationed here in
1964,
and the staff camp was opened in 1966. Mine Tours are given in the
second level of the Aztec Mine; there is also gold panning in South Ponil
Creek, and Blacksmithing was added in the late 70's. An
environmental
program was also run here from 1990 to 1992. The camp had no radio
until 1989, and French Henry is still considered to be one of the
more
primitive staff camps at Philmont. There is no purified water
source;
the only water is from South Ponil Creek. The current Museum Cabin
was built in 1895 by the Claude Mining and Milling Company (who also built
the original mill on the site.) The mill featured a 2,700 foot
bucket
tramway to transport ore from the mines on the ridge north of the
camp.
The 2 upper cabins at the camp were built around 1938 by Clinton H.
Anderson,
who made one last effort at making a profit out of the French Henry Mine
- only to find that he'd been duped by the previous owners with "spiked"
ore, and the truth was that all the easily mined gold had already been
removed
from the region. The blacksmith forge in the upper cabin was
completed
in 1982. The trail from French Henry to Copper Park is one of the
most
challenging on the entire Ranch, and is known as "The Wall." There
are mining relics and dumps throughout the entire region.]
Up at 4:35 - a lot more tolerable versus 3:30 at Miranda! Mostly
cloudy
and warmer - 52 degrees. Feels a little more humid, too, which is
not
a real good sign - but we're getting an early enough start to avoid the
usual
mid-day thunderstorms on Baldy (I hope!) Chris and Brad did the
wake-up
duties at 4:45, demanding to "see a light" in each tent before moving
on.
Hank and I joined them to handle the bear-bags. Circled up at 5:05
for stretching, and gone by 5:10. Nice trail from Ewell's Park to
the
Baldytown/French Henry road, but it seemed to be going in the wrong
direction
(towards French Henry) for forever, which was certainly
disconcerting.
Finally flipped back to generally north and west, and we intercepted the
road soon thereafter. Quick run to Baldytown on the road, with
outstanding
views down the Ute Creek Valley to our left - even better than those we
had
seen from the Ute Meadows/Ewell's Park trail the previous afternoon.
Into Baldytown at 5:45, with no-one else around. Grabbed Breakfast
on the concrete slabs, with some of the guys checking the view down the
Ute
Creek valley with the mounted telescope. Heard another Crew yelling
as they left Baldycamp for Baldy around 6:00. 3 or 4 other Crews all
arrived about 10 minutes later, all stopping for breakfast
themselves.
We finished eating, refilled all our canteens, stashed our backpacks under
the commissary, and hit the trail at 6:10 on the nose. Guys really
moving today, with only an occasional caterpillar to start and no other
breaks.
Saw a very large mule deer doe right after leaving Baldytown. Blew
through the Baldycamp Crew at 6:35; they were doing the "sprint and drift"
routine. Their 2 front-runners seemed like they wanted to join us,
hanging on the back end on our column `til I reminded them they needed to
stay with their Crew (which they reluctantly did.) Perfect hiking
weather
today - semi-cold and windy, with partly cloudy skies and plenty of
blue.
Finally went into more-or-less continuous caterpillaring, doing
two-man caterpillars
for water breaks. Guys verbally pushed hard to go all the way to the
summit without a break; I said OK, but reminded everyone that we still had
a very long day coming up - so let's not burn out before 8 am, OK?
We saw one very large Western Grouse just before we hit the Alpine meadow,
half the size of a turkey; probably the biggest I've personally ever seen
up here. No elk on the meadow, but I did get some shots of an
interesting
array of 3 different kinds of very delicate alpine flowers, each in vivid
colors. The wind picked up noticeably as we
broke out of the treeline, but nowhere near like we experienced in `98
(when it was blowing hurricane-force winds on top.)
[Photo: Steven gave us a heart-stopping show by swinging on
two poles near an old mine shaft, giving the illusion that he would
swing right off the edge of the mountain at any moment (of course,
this wasn't the case.)] Pushed steadily
all the way up the slope, then briefly held 20 feet below the peak to
allow
everyone to summit together. On top at 8:08 with an Arkansas River
cheer, first up for the day. Too bad the Fourth of July is
tomorrow!
Less than 2 hours from Baldytown - that's approaching "Ranger
speed."
It was blowing 50 - 60 mph on the crest, so everyone came back off the
crest
and over to an overhang on the right to change into long gear, before
spreading
out on the peak, laughing and yelling. Mostly sunny skies, but some
humidity haze blurring the mountains of Colorado. No snow on Wheeler
Peak this year, or under the north-facing overhangs of the Aztec Ridge
either,
so it obviously really had been a very dry Winter (or a very hot
Spring.)
I walked around snagging guys for some classic "mommie-shots," but held
off
on the Crew picture, since we could already see 2 more Crews pushing up
the
last slope from Baldytown. Grabbed my 9th Baldy rock and gave a
quick
prayer of thanks for Ron Laubenstine, Frank Cook, and John Polivka (my
Advisors
in `72 and `73.) Crew # 2 was from the Pittsburg Area Council, with
their first 2 hard-chargers arriving 8:40. They did us the
photo honors, and we returned the favor 15 minutes later, when the
rest
of their Crew arrived and assembled. In a personal record for me, I
handled 6 separate cameras for this Crew's pictures! We spent 5
minutes
building up the
largest wind barrier
on the western rise, and headed back down the Copper Park side around
9:05,
taking
the far (eastern rise) trail
down. My memory was that this trail was the "best" of 3 trails for
heading
down to Copper Park - but "best" is a relative term, as all 3 trails are
extremely steep and tricky. This one had more dirt than the other 2,
but it was a slippery slide nonetheless. Chris led most of the guys
in "slide-hopping" down the scree. Ran into our buddies from Troop
77 (from the Pike's Peak Cog Railroad) on the way up; they were sprinting
and drifting, so we took 2 minutes to show them how to caterpillar.
Passed another Crew from Plano, Texas, about 10 minutes later; they were
spread over hundreds of yards, with everyone struggling up at their own
pace.
Passed another Crew coming out of the treeline just as we got to the
bottom
of the scree slope, but I missed asking them where they were from.
The last 50 yards were pretty dicey - basically a mud slide down to the
draw
between Baldy and the Aztec Ridge. Most of the guys (including me)
"skied" it, but it was hairy. This led to a false trail going right
down the draw (the headwaters of the South Ponil Creek), which was a first
for me. Lots of fallen trees, and close-in plants that were more
suited
to a marsh versus a high-altitude mountain draw. I knew this wasn't
the right trail (that was up the slope to the left a bit), but it clearly
was a fairly heavily used trail - and there's only one direction that
matters
- down the draw - so we continued on. Heard another Crew on the
actual
trail about 10 minutes later, about 50 yards or so up the slope to our
left,
heading up to Baldy, but we just continued slogging on, finally rejoining
the main trail about 250 yards above Copper Park. Surprisingly few
Crews set up in Copper Park - this was in sharp contrast to `98, when it
seemed every campsite was full. As best as I could tell, everyone
was
already gone to Baldy by this point. Emerged at last into the
meadow,
and had everyone turn right and look up to the northeastern peak of Baldy
- a unique perspective, and (always) an impressive neck crane!
Headed
down the very steep trail (nicknamed "The Wall") to French Henry (very
happy
to not be going the other way!), cutting right to the
Aztec Mine as we approached the camp. No-one at the mine, so
Chris
and Steven headed down to grab a Staff member while the rest of us
relaxed.
Of note, some highly motivated staffers had taken the initiative to set up
about 40 feet of the ore railroad, and (most impressively) had "unfrozen"
and greased the wheels on the ore cart that had been sitting out in front
of the mine for decades. Thus, you could run the cart up and down
the
rails, and get a better feel for the amount of work the muckers had to put
in to move a load of rock out of the tunnel. Had to be quite an
effort
there; I'm impressed! Judging from how much fun the guys had
pushing each other up and down the rails, they were impressed
too.
Chris and Steven returned after about 30 minutes, followed by a puffing
staffer
(Jason Kate) about 3 minutes later. Jason had literally just arrived
from Basecamp, so he was still getting re-acclimated to the
altitude.
Chris and Steven had run into Crew 1 down at the main camp, doing the
Blacksmithing
and Gold Panning programs; they agreed to wait for us for lunch.
Jason
gave the usual introduction to mining in the area - this was an extremely
rich gold mining area for nearly 50 years, and they took many millions of
dollars worth of gold before the high-quality ore ran out. The
entrance
we were at wasn't really part of the actual gold mine, but rather a
so-called
"blowout" shaft from one of the primary tunnels, which saved the miners
from
having to cart tons of rubble all the way back to the main entrance.
Since there were 35 miles of tunnels honeycombing this ridge, on 7
different
levels, this was not a trivial issue! Following the orientation, we
donned our hard-hats and headed in -
lucky we brought our flashlights, as most of the helmet lights weren't
working
(gee, there's a surprise.) Jason spent time discussing how the holes
were drilled out for blasting, along with some of the bits used in the
work.
Tough work done by guys working by the light of a single candle. He
also talked about some of the areas beyond the barricades - of note, there
is apparently a very large room further in where many of the miners
jackhammered
their names and the dates into the walls. First I have ever heard
this
piece of information; that must be a pretty neat place from a historical
viewpoint. Unfortunately, the support timbers beyond the barricades
are now completely rotted, so heading back to that section would be
extremely
hazardous (and is illegal anyway.) Even the
fairly new timbers in the inspected and maintained shaft were soft, so
we could easily imagine the condition of the 60 year old beams further in
(can you say "Death Wish?")
The
tour
was terminated in the usual, spine-chilling fashion (details intentionally
omitted for our website readers!), and we headed back out.
Unfortunately,
we were no longer allowed to leave "by feel" in the dark; I had thought
this
was only enforced when female trekkers were present, but apparently the
New
Mexico mine safety experts had strongly counseled against the "conga-line
escape" in this shaft. A real shame, because that was always an
excellent
Crew-building exercise, as well as being a lot of fun. Exited back
out to brilliant sunshine, everyone blinking like owls.
Surprisingly,
no other Crews were waiting on us, so Jason locked up for lunch, and he
and
I headed down to French Henry together, trailing the Crew. 10 More
minutes of steep downhill to the camp, joining up with Crew 1. They
were just starting lunch, with Michael, Matt G. and Stefan still engrossed
in gold panning. Everyone seemed happy to see us, and were all
highly
positive about their trek so far.
Lunch degenerated into a squeeze-cheese and cracker gross-out session
- Chris managed to eat a 7 cracker/squeeze-cheese "sandwich" without
hurling,
so Steven went ahead and
topped that
with a 9 cracker sandwich.
Yucch. Charles impressed one and all by
devouring one cracker with an entire packet of jalapeno squeeze cheese on
top. Flame on, baby! Out of play-food at last, we headed
up for our blacksmithing session while Crew 1 started getting their stuff
together and hyperventilating in preparation for tackling the first part
of "The Wall." I spent a few minutes chatting with Rick before
rejoining
our guys. By the time I got to the forge, "Dan" the blacksmith was
already into
making a J-hook with the
Crew, and I started taking photos immediately. For some reason, the
smoke
off this year's blacksmithing forge was really acrid, and almost drove me
out of the hut `til it calmed down a little.
Every Scout got a chance to
work the
forge and also do some pounding, so a "complete" experience for
everyone.
Nice job by Dan (especially since he was about half-sick, and was
noticeably
hurting.) Once we were done, we headed back down to the stream where
(amazingly) just about the whole Crew
really
got into gold-panning, spending about 45 minutes
trying their luck. Best we could come up with were a few
possible
flakes. Finally bagged out around 3:00, and headed back to
Baldytown.
Pretty hot by now, under nearly clear blue skies; fortunately for all the
late-starting Crews, no signs of any thunderstorms today. Passed the
sign for Ewell's Park, and retraced our route of 10 hours earlier, again
enjoying spectacular views down to Miranda on the left, and up to Baldy on
the right. Pulled into Baldytown just before 3:30.
Surprisingly,
even though at least half a dozen Crews were hanging out, the showerhouse
was nearly deserted, so I "strongly" urged everyone not involved in the
food
pickup to grab their showers and wash their clothes immediately.
Chris,
Brad, Hank and I headed down to the commissary to get in line for our food
pickup, but everything was on hold waiting for a commissary truck that had
just arrived to unload. As usual, everyone was sitting around
waiting
for someone else to do something, so I "loudly" invited Chris, Brad, and
Hank to
help unload the truck with
me. With that hanging on the air, several other Advisors and Scouts
joined us, and we spent almost 45 minutes transferring over 200 boxes from
the truck into the commissary. Some of the boxes weighed around 40
pounds each, maybe more, so it was quite a workout, and we all worked up
a pretty good sweat. Got a large package of cookies for our labors,
along with the profuse thanks of the truck driver - but more importantly,
we got the commissary rolling again. The Crew in front of us was
done
by 4:30, and we finally
got our pickup
underway, doing a fast meal-strip on each bag as the meals got checked
off. This all under the rather puzzled gaze of several other Crews
(although no-one was bold enough to ask what we were doing.) We also
did a quick clean-out of the swap-box, and made some nice substitutions
for
some of our weaker dinners. Hank grabbed some fuel and a few
candy-bars
at the Trading Post. By this point it was heading on towards 5:00,
and the rest of the Crew had exhausted their interest in the Trading Post
and Museum, so we sent them back with some of the full backpacks, with
instructions
to start making a bunch of purified water for dinner. The rest of us
headed for the showerhouse, since we were all just about as "smellable"
with
food dust as we could get. Unfortunately, the last Crews of the day
had inconsiderately decided to wash all their clothes in hot water,
leaving
nothing for us. Another comment for the evaluation form - a single
sign at each showerhouse would go a long way towards conserving resources
and maintaining at least a chance for "warm" showers for the
latecomers.
Well, after gritting our teeth, we got a "highly refreshing" wash; we
certainly
didn't linger! Finally hit the road around 5:20, maybe half an hour
behind the preliminary group. Quickly caught and passed another
group
all in maroon shirts, who were taking a leisurely but animated stroll back
to camp. We had seen these guys once or twice before, and they
turned
out to be one of our brother Crews, from Ft. Wayne, Indiana. Not the
speediest group I had ever seen (in fact, they were one of the slowest),
but they seemed highly determined to have a good time, and did a lot of
joking
around and talking while hiking. A "different" way to do Philmont,
with its own positive attributes.
Into camp around 6:00, and I was pleased to find Cooper Wright set up
alongside
us. His Crew was also doing Trek 30, but they were one day behind
us.
Coop came striding across the meadow with a big grin on his face, and we
chatted for a few minutes about how things had been going. Of
course,
it was already pretty late, so we headed back to our respective Crews
within
a few minutes, promising to get together again sometime after
dinner.
Right into dinner prep for us - Chicken Noodle Stew, Cream of Chicken
Soup,
Chocolate Pudding and (but of course) most of the Commissary
Cookies!
Cleanup was followed by a camp breakdown/packup and bear-bags. I
headed
over to talk to Coop and his Crew Chief, who were plotting out their
ascent
on Baldy, and we talked for about 15 minutes on what we had done on our
first
4 days, to which Coop commented: "Yeah, but you guys are
maniacs!"
Coming from Cooper Wright, I'll call that high praise indeed. Ended
with a discussion of the next-to-last day, and whether or not we would do
"Black Death" (Black Mountain) on our way to Shaefers Pass, or rather take
the North Fork of Urraca Creek, and head up to the Pass from the
south.
We both figured we'd wait til we got to Clark's Fork to get some better
info
on the water situation at Shaefers. Back at our site, we circled up
for another session of Roses, Thorns, and Buds (a good day for it), after
which we discussed the agenda for the next day. Everyone agreed to
push hard to Head of Dean to try and catch the 8:00 am Conservation
Project
- no-one wanted to work in the heat of the afternoon. That meant
another
early reveille, since we had to be at Head of Dean by 7:30 in order to do
the morning session. Great sunset as we finished up our
packup.
Coop's group headed en masse to a spot in the meadow for their own Crew
meeting
- probably discussing Baldy (same as we had done the previous
evening.)
Bed at 8:30, 54 degrees, with clearing skies. A super day!