Up at 5:00 am, with two alarms set just to make sure. Even with 3
½ hours sleep - the most I’ve had at the beginning of a Philmont
trip in a long time - I still felt like I needed more. A wake-up
shower helped. Checked my email once last time, all the usual
spam except a “best wishes” note from Ron Pelley (a former Chain Bridge
Scouter and personal friend, now down in Sam Houston Area Council);
he’s going to be at the Philmont Training Center while I’m on the
trail, so we might be able to link up on Sunday the 28th if things work
out. Out the door at 5:35 am, already brightening up, thin to
moderate overcast, 68 degrees, still humid. I’m driving the white
van, fully loaded with our backpacks and gear from last night’s packup
session, ready to go. Stopped briefly at the Post Office to drop
off my summer camp receipts letter to Matt Bangs. After pondering
it for about a minute, I went ahead and got a coke and some
oatmeal-raisin breakfast cookies at the Westover 7/11. Arrived at
St. Agnes at 5:50 am. The Dooleys arrived five minutes later,
then the rest of the hoard. Not that I was concerned, but I went
ahead and did final uniform checks as everyone arrived; since this was
an all-111 Crew, of course no problems. Hugh and Thomas were last
at 6:17 (both had their boots on, so one more assembly chore checked
off). After quickly going through the final checklist (thankfully
no problems), we got some
repetitive
group photos from five or six parents, then loaded up. Off at
6:25 am to National, with Ted Gerarden driving the white van and Hovey
Kemp driving the maroon van. Easy drive. Quite
surprisingly, the curbside at National was nearly empty, with minimal
security presence. I had expected a zoo, and minimal patience
with our unloading; well, quite happy to be wrong on that score!
After confirming with the Northwest SkyCaps that (as expected) there
was no curbside check-in, I went inside to scope out the Group Counter
while everyone else unloaded. Met "Brenda” at desk, explained our
situation, and got some basic check-in instructions from her -
basically, haul it all in and stack right in front of the Group
Counter, alongside one of the new, massive baggage X-ray
machines. Yes ma’am. Headed back outside and got everyone
heading in the right direction, and said Sayonara and Thanks! to Ted
and Hovey. We managed to get everything off the curb and inside
in one mega-heave, stacking it as requested.
[Photos: 1,
2,
3]
Brenda was pleasant and efficient, continuing the long tradition of
courteous check-ins we have experienced over the years with Northwest
Airlines. As it turned out, everyone was allowed two pieces of
checked luggage, but most had only one (their backpacks). I ended
up giving my small duffel to Luke as his second item, since I had our
gear Totelocker on my ticket, in addition to my backpack. I think
Charlie took all our walking sticks (all strapped together) as his
second item. Everything was X-rayed, even though it was checked
luggage. Todd (different itinerary for his return) and Charlie
(late purchase) were the last ones because they were not on the group
ticket in the computer. Somewhat surprisingly, only Hugh and I
had to show photo ID’s at the Counter. After a group “Thank You”
to Brenda, it was off to Security. A few oddities this time -
everyone had to show their own ticket, no “en masse” pass-through
allowed this year. Plus they were much more meticulous on the
“wanding” of each passenger. I was last through, and (once again)
got the full search treatment. Had to take everything off my
uniform except the two service stars and Silver Beaver pin (all tiny),
and my Philmont belt buckle got a close-up inspection (and was passed
through the X-ray for good measure). They even checked my shoes
(guess my new orthodics have some metal in them). Finally got a
passing grade, and spent a minute getting myself re-assembled.
Said “Good Morning” to an onlooking VA State Trooper as I went past the
last check point (which earned me a smile). We all headed down to
Gate 3, and stacked our carry-on gear in a “guardable” pile, then I
gave everyone their release to go snacking and wandering til about 8:10
or so. I watched the gear, exchanged pleasantries with an
onlooking couple and several other nearby passengers, prayed a quick
Rosary for Connor (one of my young Scouts recovering from a very serious
illness),
then wrote diary.
Hugh brought me a small coke. Most everyone returned by 8:00,
eating Cinnabuns. Matt’s eyes were bigger than his actual
appetite; he bought two buns and could only eat one, so he tried to
sell the second one off. After some hard-core negotiating,
Michael bought it for $1.00 (it cost $2.00, so a good deal). Will was
fascinated with the zillions of mosquitos on the terminal windows, all
apparently trying to get inside (maybe the condensation on the outside
windows attracted them?) They started the boarding process at
8:10, a little earlier than I had expected; we boarded at 8:20.
Hugh took Charlie’s seat (which was way up front), and I took Todd’s
seat (also isolated), so the guys could all sit together. I went
back to snap a few photos and chat while we had the chance.
Turned out they had bought several tabloid rags for fun, and we laughed
at all the idiotic headlines. Three-Headed Alien Scoutmaster
Gives Birth to Entire Philmont Crew! I was requested to take my
seat at 8:35, and we pushed off at 8:37. After a rather lengthy
taxi, we got the “30 minute mandatory seating” warning (FAA regs for
all flights in and out of National), then took off at 8:52 to the south
(part of a string of about eight planes in a row). Northwest
Flight #629 to Minneapolis-St. Paul, continuing on to Albuquerque
afterwards (2 hour, 4 minute estimated flight time to M-SP). A
bit bumpy as we climbed through the cloud deck, then into the sunshine
at 8:57. The seat belt mandate was released on time, around
9:20. I chatted with two young ladies in the seat in front of me;
the younger one’s brother, a Scout in Gaithersburg, was “reluctantly”
going for Eagle (their Dad is an Eagle). His Troop did Mount
Rainier last year, and were going to the Adirondacks this year
(obviously a pretty impressive outdoor program, so a little hard for me
to understand the reluctance!) Their Dad had also been a camp
counselor in Wisconsin for eight years, and was there now on a camp
staff reunion. Very pleasant folks. By 9:30, we were at
altitude, and enjoying a very smooth ride. Walked back and
chatted with the guys for a little while (Mark, Matt, and Thomas were
all out like lights), then the beverage carts chased me back to my seat
for what passed for “breakfast” (I got tomato juice and a granola bar;
an “interesting” combination). Read a Washington Post story about
a famous shark fisherman who got himself wrapped up in his own line and
was taken overboard by a giant mako (and drowned); was a front-pager,
interesting. Risky business, and he who lives by the
sword..... After the beverage carts were out of the way, I went
back to talk to the guys again; some were playing cards, others talking
- for some odd reason, they wanted to discuss what I would do if I
could take over the BSA, and my Phil-East (second Philmont) idea also
(both way too long to detail here!). Of course, it’s all just a
pleasant pipedream unless I win a hundred million dollar Lotto jackpot
someday - then watch out! One thing Irving (National BSA HQ’s)
would surely fear is one of the more incurable inmates taking over the
asylum. We began our descent at 10:35, so back to my seat
again. Semi-bumpy for a while, then a smooth drop in - but then
just as we were coming over the runway, the pilots punched it and
executed a very hard fly off under screaming full power. Quite
disturbing to the all the veteran fliers, who all looked at each other
with expressionless faces (that spoke volumes). After a steep
climb and turn, the Captain came on and indicated we were waiting on
“another plane to clear the runway”. [Not to be overly dramatic
about it, but I suspect we may have narrowly avoided a catastrophe,
there.] After circling around, we came in again for (this time) a
completely uneventful landing, about 11:20 our time (10:20
local). As we deplaned, I stuck my head into the cockpit on the
way out and gave the pilots my sincere thanks for their quick thinking
and action (they smiled but said nothing in return). I remember
reading somewhere that we pay airline pilots 150K a year for the 45
seconds where they (and only they) can make a difference. I think
our guys just used up about 15 seconds worth. Once we exited (at
G-16), we headed down to G-11 for our connecting flight. Once we
re-piled all the gear together again, I gave Luke $60.00 for the Crew’s
lunch ($5.50 each), and gave everyone their release for 45
minutes. I stuck around to watch the gear pile again, asking Hugh
to pick me up a bacon cheeseburger and small coke if possible.
Most of the guys came back within 10 minutes with bagged lunches from
McDonald’s, and we quickly spread out on what later turned out to be
the Security Desk to eat. Matt discovered a wheelchair and
(despite my cautions) was soon pulling “wheelies”. Not to be
outdone,
Drew and William soon
followed suit. Then Matt managed to topple his soda on the
floor, and we parked the wheelchair for the remainder of our
stay. The rest of the guys (Luke, Will, Michael, and Todd)
returned after eating at a Pizza Hut. We moved our remaining
stuff off the table when the Security guys showed up. Boarding
commenced shortly thereafter. This time, they did want to check
everyones’ ID’s, so we all pulled ours out as we got in line.
Since it would be hard to get together on the plane, Hugh, Luke, Matt,
and I hung back at the end of the line and quickly reviewed our
upcoming stop at Colorado Springs. Luke and Matt would have to
organize the Crew for baggage retrieval and transfer to the sidewalk,
pack stripping, getting changed into riding clothes (our first activity
was horseback riding), and most importantly staying hydrated and
keeping out of the sun, while Hugh and I went to get the vans. On
the plane, Neil and Todd got seats in Row 8, while the rest of us were
in Rows 19-21. Neil and Todd were OK with that arrangement, so
Hugh and I were back with the rest of the Crew. I’m with Luke and
Will in my row [Photos:
1,
2,
3,
4,
5].
We pushed off at 12:35, taxied for 20 minutes, and took off at
12:58. Switched my watch to Philmont Time. A fast ascent,
with some bouncing and bumping. Northwest Flight #1293 to
Colorado Springs. We have a lot of teenage girls on this flight,
some kind of educational group I think (never did figure out what was
going on there), so there was a fair amount of giggling interaction and
general silliness going on for most of the flight. Right
alongside us was a young female triplet: One from France, one
from Virginia Beach, one from South Dakota, so this was indeed a
diverse group. Luke and Will were engrossed in magazines and a
book of short stories on animals. I talked to Mark and Matt a lot
during the flight, and occasionally put a few words into preventing
“Tarzan Meets Jane” from getting overly giddy. Will narrated some
stupid story about a mathematical horse, which he and Luke thought was
hilariously funny. Thankfully, this was a short flight, and our
descent began at 12:10 MDST. Clear and obviously quite dry (and
presumably hot) outside. By 12:20, things got rather bumpy, and
we got some pretty good plunges and lurches the last 10 minutes.
Landed at 12:30, taxied to the gate, and deplaned at 12:45. As we
headed towards the exit and baggage claim, I gave Luke and Matt some
last (repetitive) pointers and reminded them we wouldn’t be back for
about 2 - 2 ½ hours. Then Hugh and I called the Enterprise
shuttle while the rest of the crew headed off to the baggage claim
area. Outside, bright sun, low 90’s. After about 10
minutes, the shuttle showed up, but we waited another 20 minutes on a
last customer (who never showed) before departing. Off to
Enterprise, about a 15 minute drive. Meagen (the manager?)
handled us; our reservation was in order. 2001 white Ford
Econoline, 15 passenger van, 9,970 miles, good shape, but dirty
outside. Per our request, they washed it (took an extra 15
minutes, but worth it, as it was pretty grungy). Then it was off
to Budget for the cargo van, me driving. The MapQuest directions
weren’t quite right, so after we wandered around for about 5 minutes,
we stopped and asked a security guard in a patrolling SUV where the
place was (turned out it was just 3 minutes away, but in the opposite
direction from what MapQuest indicated). Unfortunately, here our
reservation was kaput - there were no cargo vans left on the lot.
Lucky Rick Wolff ain’t here - he’d have blown a fuse, especially since
he just re-confirmed our reservation just 10 days ago. So Troop
111's experiences with van rentals in Colorado continues its perpetual
string of problems. After some hemming and hawing, the manager
offered us a 10 foot panel truck (the last one they had) as a
replacement, at a slightly lower rate. Well as always, when you
ain’t got no choice, the choice is easy - though getting a truck onto
Peterson Air Force Base in the current security environment might
present us with some problems, so we’re going to need some luck
there. Took almost 30 minutes to get the new paperwork
straight. At 2:30, we headed back to the airport, with Hugh
driving the truck. The guys were in a group outside, waiting,
bored, and changed into their riding clothes. We quickly loaded
all the packs and some of the other gear into the truck (plenty of
room, anyway), then most of the carry-on and everyone but Hugh in the
van. Called MSgt. Stagray at 2:50, and we drove to the North Gate
of Peterson, parking at the Visitor’s Center. Ominously, there
was a “No Trucks” sign at the gate, so that potential hassle loomed
larger. I talked to the sentries at the gate, so they knew who we
were and what we were doing “hanging out”, then waited by the side of
the road in my uniform as a visual marker for MSgt. Stagray.
Sunny and hot. Luckily some trees provided a little shade, or I’d
have cooked in 10 minutes flat. Hugh got changed into his riding
clothes in the back of the truck. Once he was done, I asked him
to call Academy Riding Stables for some more explicit directions, and I
copied them down as Hugh verbally relayed them. No sign of MSgt.
Stagray, and I slowly grew increasingly agitated as time slipped by -
we’re burning too much time here, and we still have tons to do
yet. Where is he??? Finally, Hugh and I asked the sentries
if there was another gate - and sure enough, there were three gates,
and a call confirmed that he had been waiting on us at the West
Gate. Arrrgh! So back on the road for another 15 minutes to
switch venues. “Pat” Stagray was waiting there, big, very fit
looking guy. We pulled over to the inspection area. Our
panel truck was thankfully not an issue, but they did search it
thoroughly before giving us a pass for it. Took a while to get
checked in, because even though the security status had been lowered
from Condition Bravo to Condition Alpha, the MP’s still had some
questions about whether we required an escort while on the Base.
Eventually they decided to leave the “Escort” boxes on the vehicle
passes blank (which would turn out to be a reoccurring headache for us
for the next three nights), and we got ready to go. Another Troop
(also scheduled to stay on the Base) showed up behind us just as we got
going, but Pat asked them to hold in place while he got us going, since
we had two activities and an off-Base dinner still scheduled for this
afternoon and evening (and they were apparently at the end of a long
drive and done for the day). Then it was off to the “Snow Barn”
(a quite large maintenance shed), all of two minutes from the
gate. After a 10 minute orientation talk (basically key protocol,
cots, and bathrooms), Pat left to go handle the other Troop.
After a quick group toiety, we got going about five minutes later, and
headed off to Academy Riding Stables,
unbelievably enough arriving right on time (4:45) . Lucky thing I
had built as much “slop” into this afternoon’s schedule as I had, or
we’d have been an hour late. Sent the group up while I (at last)
got changed out of my uniform. The lot was full of cars and vans,
and a fair number of people were either just arriving or getting ready
to leave, so it was pretty busy. I headed up to find that
(surprise!) even though we had a reservation, I had not paid for our
ride yet, so Hugh was handling the financial paperwork. We
sat in the “instructional” area , and
I encouraged the guys to drink a liter of water as we waited.
Another mixed group of 12 was also there for the 5:00, one hour ride.
After about 10 minutes, the crowd (and parking lot) cleared out and the
head wrangler came over to give us the basic run down. He split
us into two groups for riding - the first group of 12, then us (we
would likewise be a separate group on the trail). After going
through some basic rules and instruction, and telling each rider the
name of the horse they would get, they started right in on loading us
up. The various wranglers came from the corral, each leading a
horse and calling out the horses’ names. The first group loaded
up fairly quickly, with one little girl (10 or 11 years old) crying and
very intimidated, clearly quite unhappy (two of the female wranglers
talked with her for awhile, and she soldiered on). They mounted
up the horses in groups of 10 - so Group Number 1 loaded 10 people up
first, got them out of the loading area, then loaded up the last 2
people, who joined the end of the line at the corral gate. For
some odd reason, that group left with a guy in a golf cart trailing
them (huh?); first time I’d ever seen that (maybe a new safety
thing?) After pounding down the last of our water (and storing
the canteens behind the soda machine), it was our turn. We also
did the two step loading, 10 and 3 in our case.
[Photos: 1,
2,
3]
I mounted up last so I could take photos and (try to) keep track of the
horses’ names:
Luke - Flash
Drew - Rosebud
Michael - Speck
Todd - Junior
Matt - Ghost
Will - Cricket
William Chalaco
Hugh - [“A Horse with No Name”]
Thomas - Sox II
Charlie - Rusty
Neil - Diamond
Mark - Trigger
myself - Cinder
Once I was up on Cinder, we headed out and rejoined the rest of our
group, around 5:15 or so. For whatever reason, no golf cart for
us. We had two wrangler escorts: Ryan in front, George in
the rear (right behind me). Academy uses “gap” spacing for their
horse rides - each horse was trained to walk in a line with about a one
horse gap in front and behind. The horses were “Western” reined,
so responded to just gentle pressure to turn or hold up. Once we
exited the corral area, we headed up the road to the Garden of the
Gods, about a 10 minute walk. The road winds right through a
local neighborhood, but the horses were oblivious to the moving
vehicles, dogs, and kids (who were equally oblivious to us, except for
one group of small children in the front yard of one of the first
houses we passed, who wanted to know the names of all the
horses). At the Garden, we took the Scotsman’s Trail (named after
a distinct rock formation along the way). Still sunny and hot,
and the trail was quite dusty in spots. The Scotsman’s Trail
(which I think is exclusively used for horses) winds its way on the
western side of the southernmost
formations (still well lit at this time of the day). The
Garden of the Gods is a natural grouping of huge red and grey sandstone
spires all gathered together on the western edge of Colorado Springs; a
really neat place. Once we were in the Garden proper, we passed
the golf cart - the driver was set up to take photos of each rider as
they passed, with one of the main formations backlit behind them, so
that mystery was solved. We ran into various people walking on
the crossing trails, and I exchanged greetings with each. I also
managed to get some photos
[1,
2], but since I wasn’t allowed to
take Cinder out of the line, and the wranglers weren’t allowed to take
photos for us,
it was too difficult
to get good angles on people. But despite that minor
complaint, it was all in all a very pleasant ride. We were back
in the corral by 6:15. After dismounting, we checked out our
“official” photos (as usual, nice but WAY too expensive, especially for
13 of them). I tipped both our wranglers, and after hitting the
bathroom, and grabbing some more water, we
left at 6:40 for the Cave of the Winds.
After the exciting ride up (some very steep drops alongside the road,
and no guardrails), we parked it at 6:55 and made it inside at 7:00
(again, right on time). The guys enjoyed
losing money down the parabolic well
while I went to go pay for our tour. Our Lantern Tour reservation
was in order, and we soon linked up with our guides: “Aces” and
“Quigley”, both done up in 1890's period dress. After some basic
instructions and Q&A on our caving knowledge and experiences, we
headed in. The photo people (and the Cave of the Winds sign)
weren’t there anymore (since it was after 6:00),
so we did it ourselves with
“Aces’” assistance. We did a quick walk through the more
commercial areas of the cave, passing through three “regular” tour
groups on the way, then entered into the Lantern Tour area through a
wooden door. The
Lantern Tour
basically reenacts the original style of cave tours, using only
oil-candle/bucket lamps for lighting,
and hitting the
more primitive parts
of the cave (mostly dirt floors, some tight passages, few steps or
guardrails, etc.) Although it doesn’t hit all the wonderful
formations set up for the regular tour, it is a much “cooler”
experience for Scouts - especially those (like us) who had already done
several big commercial caves like Luray Caverns. In fact, “Aces”
and “Quigley” were impressed with our overall knowledge of caves and
caving, and also with the fact that we had mostly all done plenty of
genuine spelunking in Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia, so they
took us to the
furthest back areas
where even most Lantern Tours didn’t go. Included in our tour
were a discussion of how the cave was discovered, the background of
“Aces” and “Quigley” (real life characters from the 1890's), some of
the
original excavating equipment,
the
Lincoln, Grant, and Lee
“Memorial” Rock Piles, some of the ghost/mystery stories of the
cave, and more. We ended with the usual “total
darkness/abandonment” scenario, but (being Scouts) the Crew was well
prepared with a variety of indiglo watches and a small LED light - so
we found them rather than them having to come back and “rescue”
us. [They just laughed, and said we were the first Scout group
they had ever toured with that had beaten them at the game. Well,
maybe not fairly, but it was fun anyway.] With that, we headed
back out - but I held up and took a few last photos of formations in
the “commercial” section
[Photos: 1,
2,
3,
4,
5],
so I was a few minutes behind the rest of the Crew. Took the time
this year to snap the “cave motto”, which consists of lettering
cemented into a wall:
“Dreams
of Mountains - As in Their Sleep - They Brood on Things Eternal” (a
quote from C.A. Higgins’ “The Titan of Chasms”). Simultaneously
profound and crass. Outside, we tipped “Aces” and “Quigley”, and
they took a few extra minutes to show us the original entrance deep
down in the gorge. Good guys, and a nice job. On our way
again at 9:05 (I resisted the pleas to stay to watch the laser light
show, only because every restaurant in Colorado Springs closes
early). We headed off to the Golden Corral (on South Powers) for
dinner, arriving (after some “you can’t get there from here”
back-tracking) at about 9:30. A nice buffet - but even though
they were open til 10:00, they were in fact already gearing up to
close, so a lot of the food trays were already empty or near
empty. What was left was pretty good, but we were really too
rushed to enjoy ourselves. But everyone except me did go after
the (still) well-stocked ice cream/dessert bar! At 10:15, we
called ourselves stuffed and hit the road - not quite the last
customers of the day, but pretty close. You know, I gotta think
that if just one buffet restaurant in Colorado Springs would stay open
til midnight, at least during the tourist season, and heavily advertised
that fact, they’d be mobbed after 9:30 pm - ‘cause as far as I can tell
there’s literally nowhere else to go.... Back on the road for
Peterson. Made sure everyone was seat-belted, and dimmed the
lights as we approached the Gate. But we had an instant hassle
with our Vehicle Pass, which did not have the “No Escort” indication
that had been a source of contention when we first arrived - and there
was no replacement Pass waiting for us, as promised by the MP’s that
afternoon, so were stuck in place. We got Pat on Hugh’s phone,
and he managed to work it out with the MP’s for tonight at least, so we
were finally allowed in just before 11:00, after about half an hour of
sitting (now 1:00 am “our” time, so getting to be a long day). At
the snow barn, I cautioned the guys to keep quiet and went inside to
size up the situation while Hugh unlocked the truck. It was
already “lights out” inside, but some of the garage doors were
partially open, which allowed in some light and a breeze. There
were three sets of cots set up, with two sets occupied and a third set
of 13 conveniently awaiting. I wandered over to the first group
of cots - there was one Senior Scout still awake and he confirmed that
yes, these had been set up by them for us. That was damn nice of
them, and saved us a lot of time, noise, and commotion. I asked
when they were planning on getting up - 6:00 am. I went back
outside to relay instructions to the Crew: Stay quiet, set up
your carry on and sleeping bags on the cots, hit the bathroom, drink
some more water, and get to sleep. Also, our reveille was at
5:45, and we had to be both quiet and efficient in getting up and
getting going. Back inside, I talked briefly with one of the
Scoutmasters, who had gotten up and wandered over to chat - they were
Troop 11 from Edmond, Oklahoma. A little odd for them to be up
here in Colorado Springs - a pretty good distance out of the way to
Philmont for them - but I guess we weren’t the only guys that enjoyed
the attractions of Colorado. I thanked him again for his guys
setting up the cots for us. Our guys were reasonably quiet -
though we did kick a few loose items around (for some reason, there
were several extra metal cot braces on the floor, and we firmly proved
that they were quite noisy when kicked). Once the Scouts were
done in the bathroom and settled in, Hugh and I got ourselves cleaned
up. Bed for the two of us by 12:30 am; I wrote some quick diary
notes for about 20 minutes, by flashlight. Then another Rosary
for Connor. As usual, I did not sleep - too new, too noisy, and
still too hyped up yet. But as I learned long ago, just laying
still gives me 75% or so of the value of a night’s sleep, so that’s
what I did, with my mind still mulling over the day - and the
morrow. Despite the various fubar’s, a pretty good day, and a
pretty good start.